A very original and unusual plant that is popular among our gardeners is adenium. During the period it looks more like a blooming rose bush with many flowers of bright pink or red color. Because of their resemblance to roses, adeniums are also called desert roses. The thick stem of the flower accumulates water, which allows the plant to survive even a long drought. Flowers on adenium appear slightly earlier than leaves. The plant usually begins to bloom in late spring. The leaves on the flower last all summer.
Varieties and types
There are seven decorative types of adenium in total. But only four are particularly popular:
- Abesum or obese. This species is grown in apartments. The variety blooms already in early spring and has very large flowers. Obese adenium may have pink or red flowers. Caring for this species is not difficult, as the plant is quite unpretentious.
- Arab. This variety is very similar in appearance to wild adenium. The shape of the bushes can be varied, but they are always low-growing. It blooms with bright pink flowers from the beginning of spring until its end. The Arabian species has a pronounced dormant period, during which the plant can shed some of its leaves.
- Socotrans. This is a dwarf variety with beautiful leaves. It blooms with soft pink or bright red flowers.
- Somali. Very large view. Can grow to impressive sizes. It blooms already at the age of one and a half years, when it is only 15 cm high. The flowers are not large, but they form throughout the year provided there is good lighting.
Possible problems in growing
It happens that for some reason a flower refuses to bloom and drops its leaves. This may be due to the plant being planted in unsuitable soil or being pruned incorrectly.
Seedlings may also lose leaves due to a disturbed dormant period. The plant is a moisture-loving plant, and if some of the leaves have dried out, it means it lacks moisture. But too much water can be very dangerous.
Adeniums are not too susceptible to disease. And most often this flower begins to hurt due to inappropriate conditions. Adenium diseases begin with a problem with leaves that turn yellow and fall off, curl and later dry out.
If the leaves become limp and their tips turn black, it means that the flower is flooded too much and does not have enough air. The situation can be corrected by ventilating the room more often and changing the watering regime. You can also replace the soil in the pot, since adenium prefers soil that is well permeable to water and air. If after watering the soil in the pot does not dry out for three days, then it needs to be replaced.
If the stem of an adenium plant turns black and wrinkles, the leaves turn yellow and fall off, it means that the flower is in a room that is too cold and is being overwatered. If the air temperature is low, then watering should be reduced and the flower will tolerate the cold weather normally. But it is still advisable to move the flower to a warmer room.
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Sometimes brown spots appear on the flower. Why is this happening? The appearance of brown spots and yellowing of foliage is a sign of too much sun. If a flower is exposed to the open sun without first preparing it, it may get sick. You will not get rid of brown spots - you will have to wait for new leaves to grow.
If the plant grows slowly, its leaves turn yellow, and the flower lags behind in development, then it should be transplanted into a larger pot. It may also be that adenium needs fertilizer. Foliage may also turn yellow due to lack of light.
If the flowers and crowns of adenium quickly wither, it means the room is too hot and dry. If it is not possible to rearrange the flower, it needs to be sprayed every day.
Why can the tips of the leaves on a flower dry out? If the foliage falls and dries in the fall, then this is normal for adenium. If the dormant period has not yet begun, then drying of the leaves may indicate a change in living conditions. For example, foliage may fall if the plant is moved abruptly, without preparation, from a warm room to a cool one. Foliage may also fall due to drafts or too infrequent watering.
Pests
Adeniums are very often attacked by pests, although one cannot help but rejoice in the fact that all tropical insects did not follow this plant to its new habitat. The most dangerous pests for indoor adenium are mealybugs, mites, thrips, aphids and rootbugs.
Root mealybug.
Most often, indoor adenium is affected by root worms. The scale insect prefers dry and permeable soils. Therefore, if the plant is not watered well enough, it may be affected by this pest. The appearance of a scale insect can be recognized by a whitish coating on the roots and yellowing of the foliage. This pest drinks juices from the roots and injects a substance that inhibits the growth of the plant. As a result, the foliage fades and turns yellow, and then falls off. This pest is especially dangerous for young adeniums. Drugs such as Dantol, Aktara and Mospilian will help get rid of it.
Often a whitish discharge appears in the leaf axils of the plant. They are left behind by mealybugs. The drugs Actara and Vertimek will help get rid of this insect. You need to spray the flower with these preparations every week.
The spider mite, which weaves its thin web on young leaves, is very dangerous for adeniums. Spider mites adapt very quickly to changing conditions and are very resistant to chemicals.
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Diseases
Adeniums are most susceptible to rot, which appears due to excessively wet soil.
In adenium, due to rot, the foliage falls and the top dries out. Watering should be limited in cloudy weather, as well as in winter. Despite all the precautions that gardeners take, adeniums very often suffer from rot. If only one stem is affected, then it is better to cut it off completely, without even leaving a small shoot. You need to cut off the rot completely, even the small black spots. Rotten areas should be cut back to healthy white tissue.
Adenium care
In order for the plant to delight with original flowering and grow well, it must be properly cared for. This flower grows well in bright sun. In winter, adenium should be in a fairly warm room, the temperature in which does not fall below +10 degrees. When the threat of May frosts has passed, the adenium can be moved to the balcony in sunlight. If in the summer the flower will stand in the house, then the room must be regularly ventilated.
In summer, the flower needs to be constantly sprayed. In winter, spraying is not stopped, but the plant is irrigated less often. When spraying, make sure that moisture does not get on the buds.
During the period of active growth, adenium is fed with liquid formulations containing a lot of potassium. For rapid growth and lush flowering, it is enough to fertilize the flower once a month. In the fall, fertilizing is stopped and started only in the spring.
Young adeniums grow very quickly and need to be replanted every year in larger pots. When transplanting, you should not bury the corm, otherwise it will simply rot. When the plant reaches 15 cm in height, simply replace the top layer of soil in the pot with fresh and fertile one.
In order for the plant to be healthy and not shed its leaves, it must be cared for according to all the rules. Following simple recommendations will help you grow beautiful flowers and achieve flowering.
This plant loves bright and direct light, so there is no need to place it in shade. It is preferable to grow this flower on a south window, but eastern or western windows are also suitable. But if in winter there is little light for the flower, you will have to organize additional artificial lighting. First the flower must get used to less light, otherwise it may get sick. The lower leaves especially suffer from lack of light.
Young specimens still need shading from the bright sun, since young adeniums have a very delicate trunk that can get burned in the sun in summer.
Pot
The powerful roots of adenium can easily break a ceramic pot. In addition, in a ceramic pot the soil dries out much faster. It is best to buy a thick plastic pot. The diameter of the pot should be twice the diameter of the above-ground root of the plant. This way the flower will hurt much less.
If you want to grow a squat and thick trunk, then the pot should be wide and shallow. If you want to grow a tall plant, then you need to take a narrow and deep pot.
The soil
To create a soil mixture that adenium will like, you should mix leaf soil, turf, and sand in equal parts. You can add a little crushed charcoal and crushed brick. The soil must be loose, slightly acidic, light, well permeable to water and air. To prevent fungal diseases from appearing, you can add a fungicide to the soil mixture.
With decreasing daylight hours and air temperature, the growth of adenium slows down and it enters a period of rest. During this period, its leaves turn yellow and fall off. During the winter dormancy period, the optimal temperature is 12-15°C, not lower than 10°C.
Aden imu leaf again
This is the most difficult time for our ward. Theoretically, a dormant period begins when the leaves completely or partially fall off, and watering should be greatly reduced. Why theoretically? Because the conditions on our windowsills are far from natural. In addition, some believe that for normal growth and abundant flowering of adeniums it is necessary to observe a period of rest, some say that this is desirable, and some say that it is not at all necessary.
Let's figure it out.
The dormant period in some species of adenium can be complete (A. boehmianum and A. multiflorum) or partial, when shoot growth only stops (A. somalense), but the leaves are preserved. Some species bloom for the first time during dormancy (A. somalense, A. multiflorum), and if there is not enough light (and in our country in the fall and winter, of course, it is not enough), then flowering will not happen.
In nature, the resting period of adenium obesum (A. obesum) lasts several months. If you can keep it dry and cool, then so be it. But on our windowsills it is often warm (except on extreme winter days), so in the culture the dormant period will be very short, and the leaves may fall only partially or not at all. And if you also provide lighting, the plant can even bloom, although the usual flowering time for adeniums in our latitudes is summer and early autumn.
This is what the “change of seasons” looks like in practice for adeniums on window sills. In spring and summer, the temperature ranges from 22 to 35°C (adeniums like it best around 30°C). With decreasing daylight hours and a drop in temperature to 16-20°C, growth slows down. In this case, some of the foliage may turn yellow and fall off (adenium itself tells you that it wants to rest). At this time, you should significantly reduce watering and stop fertilizing. At temperatures below 15°C, adeniums begin a dormant period. In winter, it is recommended to keep it at a temperature of 10-15°C. Please note that the temperature should not fall below 10°C. Adult adeniums can withstand a temperature drop of up to + 4°C with an absolutely dry earthen coma, but it is better not to risk it. If the apartment is warm even in winter, do not stop watering. Of course, you need to water less than in summer, but how much less - only you can determine for yourself, focusing on the temperature on your windowsill. Take into account the age of your adenium - an adult plant will survive at 10-15°C for a long time without watering at all, but a seedling is unlikely to do so.
And another important point. The first watering after a long dry period can be very dangerous - the plant has completely fallen asleep, all processes have slowed down, and here we are with our “care”. Even a small amount of water is fatal for an unawakened adenium
No, that's not correct. It’s hot for him, since at this time he is kept at +12-15 degrees in a bright place, watering is reduced. From October to March it has a dormant period. Drafts may also be the cause.
This is normal. Why does he need leaves now? We need to stop watering it. Stop its growth. Let the leaves fall. In the spring, after thorough pruning, it will begin to produce new leaves and buds. Keep warm for now. The main thing is that the earthen lump is not cold. All the best.
In adenium, problems associated with a deficiency of nutrients arise due to violation of maintenance conditions - lack of fertilizing and (or) the acidity of the soil mixture does not correspond to the recommendations.
Adenium is a fast-growing plant with abundant flowering (under favorable conditions). Therefore, it requires a significant amount of nutrients.
Nitrogen (N) deficiency leads to yellowing and subsequent falling of the lower leaves, young leaves become smaller and acquire a red-yellow tint, adenium does not produce visible growth, and there is no flowering. Typically, when nitrogen levels are low, the plant has bare stems and the remaining leaves are collected in small bunches.
Potassium (K) deficiency will result in marginal scorch of the lower leaves.
Phosphorus (P) deficiency leads to slowing or cessation of growth and reddening of the lower leaves.
Calcium (Ca) deficiency leads to drying out of young shoots, death of leaf tips, and deformation of the leaf plate.
Boron deficiency (B) leads to deformation of the sheet surface - it becomes corrugated. The leaf plate is deformed at the base and in the middle part.
Copper deficiency (Cu). Symptoms - new leaves become smaller, their edges bend upward, there are much fewer flowers and their color fades, the seed pods are deformed.
Zinc deficiency (Zn) usually occurs on large plants, especially if they are heavily loaded with seeds. Plant growth decreases, young leaves become smaller, seed pods bend inward, turn yellow and die.
Iron (Fe) deficiency manifests itself as chlorosis of the leaves, and is often a sign of root damage or death.
If adenium shows symptoms of nutrient deficiency, then we carry out (depending on the conditions of detention) root and foliar feeding, replanting the plant with a complete or partial replacement of the soil mixture.
Excess nutrients
For plants, an excess of nutrients is just as harmful as their deficiency.
Excess nitrogen will lead to softening of the stem, increased size of internodes, increased leaf size, and lack of flowering.
Excess calcium will lead to a change in the pH of the soil mixture and, as a result, to a deficiency of microelements. Manifests itself as chlorosis of leaves. Calcium enters the soil as a component of the soil mixture. Its excess is obtained due to watering the plant with hard water.
- the plant drops flowers and fruits;
- yellowing and subsequent falling of leaves.
If left untreated, the plant will likely die. To correct the situation, it is necessary to replant the plant, replacing the soil mixture and pre-treating damage to the root system.
Since adenium is quite resistant to disease, changes in appearance often associated with unsuitable conditions.
Photo
Pests
Despite some resistance of adeniums to pests, especially in our climate, they are still susceptible to attack.
The main threat is:
- Root mealybug;
- Mealybug;
- Spider mite.
Root mealybug
It is dangerous for adenium not only because it drinks juice. It harms roots and poisons with inhibitory substances and causes leaf tips to dry out. It causes the greatest harm to young shoots.
Signs of damage:
- Despite the correct adenium, growth stopped;
- Pale and faded foliage;
- Adenium leaves turn yellow;
- Presence of root damage, the appearance of fungal diseases;
- Shriveled and drying leaves.
Prevention:
Fighting methods
- Chemical method.
- Root bath.
Chemical method control involves treating the soil with such preparations as Confidor and Aktara. Thanks to the systemic action, they cope well with scale insects. Recommended concentration: The course of treatment includes at least three treatments with an interval of 5-10 days.
Also applicable insecticidal sticks, but they are not enough for serious treatment. They can be used as a preventive measure against scale insects and other pests such as aphids and spider mites.
- The roots are heated in hot water (up to 55 degrees Celsius) for 15-20 minutes. Afterwards you need to let it dry as before planting;
- Remove the plant from the pot, add soil and wash the roots. The earth should not remain;
- Disinfect or replace the pot;
- Trim off infected areas. If the damaged area is left unpruned, after some time the mealybug will appear again;
- Wash the roots with an insecticide solution;
- Plant in a fresh or treated pot and in a new substrate;
- Keep it separate from other plants for some time. This is necessary to prevent possible infection of other flowers.
Mealybug
A sucking insect that lives in leaf axils and produces a waxy, white discharge on young shoots, foliage and buds. Adenium stops growing and gets worse. Strong defeat mealybug can lead to death.
Signs:
- Cotton-like, waxy, white coating;
- Sugary discharge and the appearance of sooty fungus on it indicate a serious illness.
Fighting method:
- In case of minor damage, adenium can be treated with a soap solution, using a swab or brush to clean off the scale insects and their secretions. Afterwards it is necessary to treat with a weak soap or alcohol solution.
- Spraying the plant with Aktara, Kofidant, Kofinor and Fitoverm. It must be processed carefully and in accordance with the instructions. Treatment should be repeated every 7-10 days.
The older the larvae, the more difficult it is to get rid of them.
Spider mite
A harmful insect, dangerous at all stages of development. It spreads very quickly and in a short time can infect all the plants in the apartment.
Signs:
- Pale foliage color;
- The appearance of a large number of yellow dots on the leaves.
When fighting mites, the plant must be treated with one of the following products:
- Fitoverm is a low-toxic drug, effective against ticks at a concentration of 2-5 ml/1l.
- Masai is effective in combating both larvae and adults. The optimal concentration is 0.15-0.3 g/1l.
- Borneo - A protective agent that affects ticks at all stages of development.
- Floramite is a contact acaricide, effective for local damage.
All of the above drugs are used in a mixture with the Silvet-gold adhesive at a concentration of 0.5 ml per liter.
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Adenium is a beautiful plant that came to us from South-West and East Africa.
The bottle-shaped stem and bright flowers will decorate any interior and will be a great addition to a home greenhouse, fully justifying its purpose. middle name – Desert Rose.
Despite its origin, caring for Adenium is not particularly difficult: room temperature (in winter from 10, in summer from 25 degrees), good sunlight, regular watering and periodic spraying.
Adenium diseases
Since adenium is quite resistant to disease, changes in appearance often associated with unsuitable conditions.
Signs that Adenium is unsuitable for growing are as follows:
- The leaves have become limp, the tips of the leaves of adenium turn black - the reason is excessive watering, too much water and not enough air. It can be corrected by changing the frequency of watering or replacing the soil (soil with increased permeability of water and air is needed. If after heavy watering the soil does not dry out within three days, the substrate must be changed);
- Black, wrinkled stem, limp leaves that turn black and fall off - excessive watering and cold temperature. When the air cools, the amount of water should be reduced, then the flower will tolerate the cold weather normally. You can fix it by reducing watering, or moving the pot to a warmer place;
- Brown spots on adenium - sunburn. Perhaps after the store immediately provided with intense lighting without an adjustment period or due to bright sunshine after prolonged cloudy weather. They disappear after the leaves are renewed, so it is better to avoid burns. If everything is in order with the lighting, then it may be a bacteriological burn, and it requires serious treatment;
- Slow growing and does not bloom- more likely needs replanting or fertilizing. Growth also slows down in low light and during dormancy;
- Flowers wither quickly– insufficient humidity and elevated air temperature. Corrected by spraying the stem(flowers cannot be sprayed) or by moving it to a less hot place;
- Why Adenium tips of leaves dry out? This is a more difficult problem in terms of identifying causes. In autumn, the plant has a dormant period and falling leaves are the norm. If the dormant period has not begun, then such foliage indicates a sharp change in conditions ( decrease/increase in temperature at night or during the day, drafts). Also, adenium leaves dry out when the sun is too bright, or with too infrequent watering.
Now let’s look at the symptoms that cannot be removed with time and a simple change of conditions:
- Bacterial burn and infections;
- Caudex rot;
- Pest attacks.
Bacterial burn
Outwardly very similar to solar, but occurs with high humidity, that’s why adenium leaves turn yellow.
Treatment consists of stopping spraying, collecting affected leaves, treatment with a weak antiseptic solution and procedures for soil health. You can treat with a weak solution of potassium permanganate, avoiding contact with flowers and soil.
Soil improvement procedures include treatment with special fertilizers and soil treatment with bactericidal agents. It is better not to use the latter, as there is a risk of destroying the microflora in the soil, which will lead to other infections and damage to the root system.
The Baikal-EM fertilizer, which is a concentrate of dormant beneficial microorganisms, is well suited for health improvement. When used, useful substances are produced, the smell of mold from the soil disappears, and the growth and development of adenium accelerates.
Caudex rot
A very dangerous disease, which can lead to death. The danger is that the affected plant looks healthy for a long time.
The reason is excess moisture in the soil. It often appears in the autumn-winter period, when the intensity of watering does not change as the temperature drops.
Sign of probable rotting- at adenium Leaves (lower) turn yellow and fall off, but this sign may not appear or may appear under other circumstances (draft). A symptom of caudex rot is a soft stem. If softening is felt when the stem is compressed at ground level and above, the flower is most likely rotten.
If adenium the roots are rotting, then the only one way out - cut the stem above the level of rotting and root the remaining cuttings. But if the disease has not yet affected the upper roots, adenium can be preserved.
For this you need put the flower in a warm place and temporarily stop watering. After about two weeks, the healthy tissue will separate from the damaged tissue and the plant can be planted in fresh soil and cared for as before.
When drawing up a schedule, you should be guided by the following rules:
- The lower the temperature, the less often and less you should water;
- When evening comes, the soil should be slightly moist, but not wet;
- The substrate should have time to dry between waterings;
- It is better to water with warm water.
Pests
Despite some resistance of adeniums to pests, especially in our climate, they are still susceptible to attack.
The main threat is:
- Root mealybug;
- Mealybug;
- Spider mite.
Root mealybug
It is dangerous for adenium not only because it drinks juice. It harms roots and poisons with inhibitory substances and causes leaf tips to dry out. It causes the greatest harm to young shoots.
Signs of damage:
- Despite proper care, adenium has stopped growing;
- Pale and faded foliage;
- Adenium leaves turn yellow;
- Presence of root damage, the appearance of fungal diseases;
- Shriveled and drying leaves.
Prevention:
Fighting methods
- Chemical method.
- Root bath.
Chemical method control involves treating the soil with such preparations as Confidor and Aktara. Thanks to the systemic action, they cope well with scale insects. Recommended concentration: The course of treatment includes at least three treatments with an interval of 5-10 days.
Also applicable insecticidal sticks, but they are not enough for serious treatment. They can be used as a preventive measure against scale insects and other pests such as aphids and spider mites.
- The roots are heated in hot water (up to 55 degrees Celsius) for 15-20 minutes. Afterwards you need to let it dry as before planting;
- Remove the plant from the pot, add soil and wash the roots. The earth should not remain;
- Disinfect or replace the pot;
- Trim off infected areas. If the damaged area is left unpruned, after some time the mealybug will appear again;
- Wash the roots with an insecticide solution;
- Plant in a fresh or treated pot and in a new substrate;
- Keep it separate from other plants for some time. This is necessary to prevent possible infection of other flowers.
Mealybug
A sucking insect that lives in leaf axils and produces a waxy, white discharge on young shoots, foliage and buds. Adenium stops growing and blooms worse. Strong defeat mealybug can lead to death.
Signs:
- Cotton-like, waxy, white coating;
- Sugary discharge and the appearance of sooty fungus on it indicate a serious illness.
Fighting method:
- In case of minor damage, adenium can be treated with a soap solution, using a swab or brush to clean off the scale insects and their secretions. Afterwards it is necessary to treat with a weak soap or alcohol solution.
- Spraying the plant with Aktara, Kofidant, Kofinor and Fitoverm. It must be processed carefully and in accordance with the instructions. Treatment should be repeated every 7-10 days.
Spider mite
A harmful insect, dangerous at all stages of development. It spreads very quickly and in a short time can infect all the plants in the apartment.
Signs:
- Pale foliage color;
- The appearance of a large number of yellow dots on the leaves.
When fighting mites, the plant must be treated with one of the following products:
- Fitoverm is a low-toxic drug, effective against ticks at a concentration of 2-5 ml/1l.
- Masai is effective in combating both larvae and adults. The optimal concentration is 0.15-0.3 g/1l.
- Borneo - A protective agent that affects ticks at all stages of development.
- Floramite is a contact acaricide, effective for local damage.
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Why does adenium have problems with leaves?
06/11/2017 Leave a comment 8,805 Views
Adenium is a beautiful oblong shaped plant with bright blooms that will look good in any home. The leaves of the plant are dark green in color, but, unfortunately, their beauty can be compromised by the leaves over time.
Problems with leaves and reasons for their appearance
Adenium is a fairly disease-resistant plant, so often a change in appearance, such as, for example, yellowing of leaves, can be caused by improper care or inappropriate conditions for it.
Signs of inappropriate conditions for growing adenium:
- The plant shriveled. In this case, the tips of the leaves turn black, which is caused by excessive watering. There is too much water, but on the contrary there is too little air. This problem can be corrected by changing the frequency of watering. If the soil does not dry out within 2-3 days after abundant watering, then the substrate should be completely changed. The soil for the plant should be chosen with high permeability of water and air.
- The stems became wrinkled and blackened. If the leaves are black, limp and fall off, this is also the reason for the plant being overwatered and the temperature being too low. When the air cools, it will be better to reduce the frequency of watering, then the plant will withstand the cold weather much easier. To solve this problem, you need to place the pot in a warm place and reduce the frequency of spraying
- Brown spots. These spots are the consequences of sunburn. They can occur if, after purchasing a plant, it is immediately provided with too much sunlight without an adjustment period. Another reason for burns is very strong light brightness after cloudy weather. In this case, the burns will disappear only after the leaves are completely renewed, so it is better to avoid bright light. If the lighting is normal, then it may be a bacterial burn, which must be seriously treated.
- Too slow growth and lack of flowering. This problem may occur due to lack of light or heat. Growth also slows down due to the plant's need for feeding and replanting.
- Rapid wilting of flowers. The reason for this is high air humidity and too high a temperature. The problem can be corrected by moving the flower to a less hot place. You also need to spray the stems without getting on the flowers.
- Adenium leaves have dry tips. This is a more complex problem and it is very important to know what to do in order to solve it. With this problem, it is much more difficult to establish the reasons for its occurrence. If the tips of the leaves turn yellow, it is most likely due to too sudden a change in conditions, such as a decrease or increase in temperature during the day or night, as well as drafts. Leaves also dry out and fall off if there is too much sunlight or lack of watering.
- Pests and plant infections There are a number of other reasons that can negatively affect foliage.
The main symptoms that are more difficult to get rid of:
1) Bacterial burn and infections.
2) Pest damage.
3) Caudex rot.
Bacterial burn
During treatment it is necessary to stop spraying. Affected leaves should be collected, treated with an antiseptic solution, and soil health procedures should also be carried out. This can be done with a weak solution of potassium permanganate, but be sure to avoid getting the solution on the flowers and soil.
To improve the health of the soil, treatment with special fertilizers is necessary, as well as treatment with bactericidal agents. The use of the latter method is best used in extreme cases, since it can destroy microflora in the soil, which in turn can lead to other infections, as well as damage the root system.
The Baikal-EM fertilizer is good for health improvement. This fertilizer is a concentrate of dormant beneficial microorganisms. When using this drug, useful substances are produced, the unpleasant smell of flowers disappears, and the development and growth of the plant is significantly accelerated. It is very important to follow the instructions carefully to avoid overdosing and damaging the plant.
Pests
Although adenium is a plant that is quite resistant to pests, they can still attack it and become another reason Why The leaves of the flower turn yellow.
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The plant can be affected by rootworm, mealyworm and spider mite.
The root mite poses a threat to the plant by drinking its sap. This causes great harm to the root system and poisons it with harmful substances. Adenium leaves turn yellow, but young shoots suffer most from root mites.
Signs of rootworm damage:
- Plant growth stops.
- Leaves turn pale and curl.
- The foliage of the plant begins to turn yellow and may dry out.
- The occurrence of fungal diseases.
- The presence of damaged roots.
- The leaves of the plant dry out and wrinkle.
For prevention, you can steam the soil before planting. Then you need abundant and regular watering. To reduce the risk of disease, it is important to monitor the soil and inspect it for pests or fungal diseases. You can also get good results from watering with water containing insecticides. It is recommended to do this 3-4 times in spring and autumn.
You can treat a plant for root mites using chemical soil treatment with Confidor or Aktar. The course of treatment consists of three treatments with an interval of 5-10 days.
Mealyworms are sucking insects that create a waxy white discharge on bud tips, leaves, and young shoots. Because of this, adenium grows slower and blooms worse, and if the damage is too severe, it can even die.
Signs of mealyworm infestation:
- white, cotton-like, waxy coating;
- sugary discharge;
- the appearance of a fungus on the discharge, which indicates the severity of the disease.
To combat the pest if the infestation is not too severe, you can use a soap solution. Using a small brush or cotton swab soaked in the solution, you need to clean off the worms and their secretions. After this procedure, the plant must be treated with an alcohol solution.
Another method is to spray the plant with medicinal preparations such as Aktara, Cofidant, Fitoverm and Kofinor. Processing must be thorough and in accordance with the instructions. It should be done every week.
Spider mites are harmful and dangerous insects at every stage of their development. It is dangerous not only for the affected adenium, but also for all other indoor plants, as it spreads quite quickly.
Signs of spider mite infestation:
- leaves are too pale in color;
- the appearance of many yellow spots on the leaves.
To defeat the pest, treatment is required in one of these ways:
- Fitoverm. The drug is low toxic and effective against ticks. The concentration should be 2-5 ml. for 1 liter of water.
- Masai. It helps well both in the fight against larvae and adults. Concentration: 0.15-0.3 g per 1 liter of water.
- Floramite. This is a contact acaricide, which is most effective for local damage.
- Borneo. This is a protective agent. Affects ticks at any stage of development.
Kudex Rot
Rot - Kudex is a rather dangerous disease, the worst result of which can be the death of the plant. Its main disadvantage is that at first the affected plant looks completely healthy.
The cause of the disease is excess moisture in the soil. Most often, the disease occurs in the autumn-winter period. At this time, the amount of watering does not decrease, which results in excess moisture.
- The lower leaves of adenium turn yellow and fall off. This symptom may also appear under other circumstances, for example, during drafts.
- Another “signal” is stems that are too soft. If softening is felt at the soil level and slightly above when the stems are compressed, this is a sign that the flower has rotted.
If the root of a flower rots, you can save it by cutting the stem above the level of rot and rooting it. In cases where the disease has not yet affected the root system, the plant can be preserved. To do this, you need to move it to a warm place and stop watering. After 10-15 days, the healthy tissue should separate from the diseased tissue, and the plant itself can then be transplanted into fresh soil and cared for as before.
We know why variegation disappears on adenium leaves, as well as other flower problems
At home, unpretentious adenium can be affected by diseases to which it has no immunity.
The main task in this case is to most accurately determine the cause of the disease and take measures to restore the health of the plant.
You will learn about the causes of plant problems and diseases, their treatment; you will read about pests, and you will also become aware of what they look like in the photo.
Foliage problems
Dries
For an adult plant, even in very good shape, this is normal. As the trunk grows, it is freed from excess leaves, they dry out and die. If the leaves dry out very much, the cause may be unbalanced soil.
Often this fiber is of low quality and is enriched with sea salts. Exactly An excess of minerals in the soil causes health problems for adenium. The solution in this case will be to transplant the plant into newly purchased balanced soil, manufactured in a factory.
The tips of the leaves wither
Why do the tips of the leaves dry out? A similar problem affects almost all young adeniums in the off-season. The tips of the lower leaves dry out while new foliage appears at the top. This is how the plant reacts to changes in temperature. In this situation, it is recommended to increase the temperature.
Turns yellow
Why do the leaves turn yellow? There may be two reasons for this phenomenon:
Falls off
It happens that adenium does not bloom and drops its leaves. If this happens in the fall and the number of dried and fallen leaves is small, then this is the norm for adenium. If this happens before the start of the dormant period, there may be several reasons for the shedding of leaves:
- The plant is planted in unsuitable soil. The problem is solved by transplantation.
- Incorrect pruning of the plant. When pruning, you need to focus on the size of the caudex. The procedure is only permissible if it is wide enough (you can read how to correctly form the caudex of adenium and what to do if it dries and withers in this article, and here we talked about how and when to trim adenium at home) .
- The plant may not have enough moisture. The solution will be competent regulation of watering.
- Foliage may fall off if the adenium is suddenly moved from a warm room to a cold one or if it has stood for some time in a draft.
It loses its variegation
Why does the variegation on the leaves disappear? If adenium begins to grow completely green leaves, there may be four reasons:
- Lack of lighting.
- General weakening of the plant.
- Excess nitrogen fertilizing.
- Degeneration (return from mutation to the original form).
For the first three reasons, it is enough to adjust your care. In the case of the last problem, nothing can be changed. The mutation process may, on the contrary, intensify and the plant will begin to grow exclusively white leaves. This is dangerous for the flower and can lead to its death. But The appearance of just a few white leaves should not be a cause for concern. Normally, this happens after pruning or in the spring and summer. By autumn the leaves will turn green.
Round spots
The reason for this type of adenium disease lies in high air humidity. The disease is fungal and after the leaves it attacks the caudex of the plant. The solution would be preventative treatment with fungicides twice a season.
Burns
If brown spots appear on the plant, this is sunburn. Despite the fact that the homeland of adenium is a desert, it must be gradually accustomed to the bright sun. If a burn is received, it will go away slowly and will disappear only after the leaves are renewed.
If the humidity of the soil and air is very high, adenium can get a bacterial burn. Outwardly, it is very similar to solar, but control methods include collecting affected leaves, treating with an antiseptic and measures to improve the soil.
Improving soil health includes treating it with special bactericidal agents.
Pests
Mealybug
An insect that lives in leaf axils. It affects young shoots, foliage and buds. Signs of damage are:
- White, waxy, cotton-like coating.
- Sugary discharge in case of long-term illness.
Adenium stops growing and begins to experience problems with flowering. Severe defeat leads to death.
Fighting methods:
- If the disease is in its early stages, the plant can be treated with a soap solution, removing the scale insects and their secretions. In the future, it is necessary to carry out preventive treatments with a weak soap or alcohol solution.
- Spray the plants with special preparations in accordance with the instructions. Repeat the treatment weekly.
Bedbugs
Sucking insects that appear on pods with adenium seeds and seriously damage them. Treatment with special preparations helps in this case. A mustard solution may also help. Dissolve 100 grams of dry powder in ten liters and spray the plant damaged by pests every three days.
Caterpillars
They may appear on adenium due to transfer from other plants. This often happens when keeping a flower outdoors in the summer.
Small caterpillars or their larvae are light green in color and are often difficult to distinguish from the foliage of the plant. The insect eats holes in the leaves, and the growth of adenium slows down.
As a control measure, it is necessary to manually collect all the caterpillars from the flower and destroy them, and treat severely affected areas with insecticides.
A sign of damage is curling leaves. When such a symptom appears, you should examine the back side of the leaves. Aphids are very noticeable. Its larvae look like gray-green insects.
Easily destroyed. It is enough to carry out one treatment with any specialized drug.
Coccids
Common name for scale insects, false scale insects and scale insects. Sucking insects that damage leaves and shoots of plants. Coccids secrete thick sticky substances covered with a black, sooty coating. It is better to fight them at the larval stage.
Adult insects are covered with “shields” and are more resistant to various types of drugs. Most often, adenium suffers from root insects, since the pest prefers dry, breathable soils.
The following measures can save the flower:
- Treating the soil with special preparations (Dantop, Mospilian, Aktara). The most effective method, since the mealybug larvae are covered with a difficult-to-permeate cocoon, which only chemicals can destroy.
- Root hot bath:
- Place adenium in hot (+55 degrees) water and hold for 15-20 minutes. Then dry for 20 hours.
- Remove the flower from the pot along with the earthen lump.
- Clean the roots from the soil and rinse thoroughly.
- Cut off all affected areas of the root system.
- Wash the roots with insecticide.
- Plant in a new pot and fresh substrate.
And this is what the pests look like in the photo:
Diseases and other problems
The flower doesn't grow
Why doesn't the flower grow and what to do about it? Most often this happens in low light during the rest period. You can fix the problem by adjusting your care:
- organize a long daylight hours for the plant - 12-14 hours;
- eliminate the absence of drafts;
- maintain soil looseness;
- the pot for adenium should not be too spacious.
Why does it drop buds?
This is caused by stress (most often cold weather) associated with changes in living conditions during budding.
Maximum care should be taken for the plant during the period of bud set.
We talked about how to make adenium bloom at home in this material.
Rotting
Rotting of adenium is promoted by low temperature and high humidity. The top of the plant begins to dry out and the leaves fall off. For prevention, watering should be limited in winter and in cloudy weather.
What to do if the flower is rotten? The following steps will help you get rid of rot:
The branches are drying up
Due to the slow movement of juice. Having discovered a similar phenomenon on adenium, the main thing is not to cut off the dried areas - this will not help. A treatment option would be to completely coat the plant with a mixture of tetracycline and foundation and water it with stimulants. Adenium should be in bright sun.
Healthy adenium pleases the eye with abundant flowering, bright foliage and a strong trunk. This flower reacts with gratitude even to minimal care, maintaining an excellent decorative appearance all year round.
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Adenium - what to do if leaves and soft caudex fall off?
Problems with the adenium caudex
If the caudex has become soft, then the adenium either does not receive enough moisture, or the root and stem of the plant begin to rot.
In the first case, the caudex wrinkles if the adenium does not receive enough moisture. This is most often observed in hot, sunny weather and when the temperature in the room where the plant is located is within +25. +30 degrees. The second case is when the plant is dried out, that is, watering is artificially limited, which, according to many gardeners, stimulates the flowering of the plant. It should be remembered that mini adenium varieties do not tolerate drying very well and take a very long time to recover from this state. The second sign of lack of moisture is yellowing of the leaves. It is important to remember that adenium leaves turn yellow from lack of moisture not en masse, but one at a time, and preferably these are the lower, older leaves. First, the leaf plate between the veins begins to turn yellow, while the veins themselves remain a green, rich color.
The caudex is soft if the adenium rots. This most often happens from an excess of moisture at the same time as a low temperature. Thus, with the onset of autumn, the average daily temperature drops. Despite the hot, sunny days, the temperature outside at night drops to +10 degrees. Even if the plant is in a room on a window, the temperature there can also drop below +20 degrees. With abundant watering (as in summer at a temperature of +25. +30 degrees) and a low temperature, the adenium caudex begins to rot. But more often this problem is observed in winter, when the temperature of the plant is within +15. +20 degrees. In autumn, to avoid rotting of the caudex, watering is carried out very sparingly, watering the flower once every 7-10 days. In winter, it is enough to lightly moisten the top layer of soil without completely wetting the earthen clod. Here it is better to use a spray bottle.
Important. The roots and caudex of adenium rot from waterlogging in autumn and winter. If the adenium is standing on a window, then in winter its roots may freeze, which will also cause the caudex to rot.
How to save adenium if the root has rotted? If the plant is young and is experiencing its first autumn and winter (the age of the plant does not exceed 1 year), then you need to follow the following scheme:
1. It is necessary to remove the adenium from the pot. The plant is cleared of soil and washed. After the roots have dried (20-30 minutes), they are examined for rot.
2. If the caudex is completely soft, then it is trimmed down to living tissue without rot.. You need to cut into thin rings so as not to remove healthy tissue. In some cases, it is necessary to remove most or all of the caudex. It's not scary. With proper care, even a small cutting will take root. If several roots have rotted, then it is enough to trim only them.
3. Next, the adenium with the rot removed from the stem must be dried. The plant is sent to a warm place where the temperature does not drop below +22 degrees. Dry the cuttings for 1-1.5 days. If it is more, the cutting may dry out. Heavily dried adenium will not produce roots. During this time, the cut should dry out and a kind of ring of living, dried tissue should form on it. If during this time no rot has formed on the cut, then proceed to direct rooting of the cutting. If, while drying the adenium, rot has formed on its stem again, then the stem is cut again and all the steps described above are performed from the very beginning.
4. Rooting of cuttings can be carried out in perlite or directly in soil special for adenium. At this stage, you need to take care of the correct soil moisture. For adenium to root, the soil must be moist, but not wet. You can check the soil moisture level like this: take a handful of prepared soil and squeeze it in your palm. Then the palm is unclenched, there should be a lump in the hand that crumbles when touched. If the lump does not crumble, then the soil is waterlogged. Perlite needs to be moistened from a spray bottle. Give it time to absorb moisture. Water should not drip from perlite. You need to remember that perlite retains moisture better than soil, and therefore it is very easy to over-water a plant in it.
5. The prepared soil mixture is poured into a small pot, and an adenium cutting is placed there.. The pot is placed in a bright and warm place. It is recommended that if rooting is carried out in winter or autumn, then place a sheet of foam plastic or any other insulation under the pots with adenium. The temperature in the room where the cuttings are rooted should not fall below +20 degrees. The higher the temperature, the better for the plant. It is recommended to place pots with adenium cuttings under or on the radiator, but only if they are very hot. then place a book or cloth under the pots.
6. Watering is carried out very sparingly. The first watering after planting the cuttings can be done on the 10th day. You just need to lightly moisten the top layer of soil in the pot. The lower the temperature of the flower, the less water it needs.
At the rooting stage, you also need to monitor the condition of adenium. This caudex can recover, and new leaves can grow on the stem, but rot can develop again from waterlogged soil. With proper care, the plant grows roots within 1 month, after which it is transferred to a larger pot (maximum 1 cm in diameter), where it will remain until it is completely restored. You can water the adenium after transplantation only after 5 days.
If an adult adenium has a soft caudex, then it needs to be dried. It is recommended not to water the plant at all, and if the problem occurs in winter or autumn, then send the flower pot closer to the battery. In adult adenium, as a rule, immunity is higher. He can stop the rot on his own. After the plant has dried (the soil in the pot has become dry), the flower is removed from the soil, the roots are washed and inspected. As a rule, rot on the caudex of an adult flower separates from healthy tissue on its own. This is followed by rooting the remaining cuttings according to the scheme described above.
Adenium leaves turn yellow, dry, and fall off.
With normal care and proper maintenance conditions, the leaves turn yellow if the adenium goes to rest. Basically, the lower leaves turn yellow not en masse, but one at a time. The leaf blade turns yellow, while the leaf veins retain their bright color. Depending on the variety, adenium may lose all its leaves in the winter. A similar phenomenon is observed when the average daily temperature drops, that is, in the fall. Despite the hot days, the temperature outside the window at night can drop to +6. +10 degrees.
What to do if adenium leaves turn yellow en masse? In this case, it is necessary to pay attention to the conditions under which the plant is kept. Massive yellowing of leaves indicates disturbances in the functioning of the root system. A clear sign of rotting of the adenium root system is a soft caudex. What to do? If the plant is an adult, that is, its age exceeds 3 years, then dry it, then remove the rotten part of the stem and root the resulting cutting. What to do with young adenium is written above.
In young adenium (age 1 year), the tips of the leaves dry out. Why? A similar problem occurs in almost all young plants in the off-season. This is a reaction to a change in temperature. In adenium, the tips of the lower leaves dry out, while new foliage continues to grow at the top of the plant. In this case, it is recommended to increase the temperature. In the autumn-spring period, you also need to monitor watering. The main thing is not to overfill. Otherwise, the root may rot and the caudex may become soft.
Adenium leaves may dry out and fall off if the plant is planted in unbalanced soil.. For example, beginning gardeners often add coconut fiber to the soil mixture. If the latter is of low quality, then it is necessarily enriched with sea salts. An excess of minerals in the soil negatively affects the health of adenium. After planting in such soil, the leaves of the plant may turn yellow and dry out. It is recommended to buy and replant adeniums in balanced soil, which is prepared in the factory.
The lush crown of adenium and the wide caudex are the result of proper pruning - read more about pruning adenium
Adenium leaves fall off if there is an excess of fertilizers in the soil or the plant is watered with a highly concentrated fertilizer solution. The latter can cause burns to the root system, which necessarily affects the condition of the leaves. It is recommended to use liquid, complex fertilizers to fertilize adeniums, where the main substances (potassium, phosphorus and nitrogen) are contained in equal proportions, and microelements are also present. It is recommended to dilute such fertilizers 4 times the recommended concentration.
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Re: Adenium leaves dry out and fall off
Re: Adenium leaves dry out and fall off
Re: Adenium leaves dry out and fall off
Re: Adenium leaves dry out and fall off
Adenium from seeds
Message Igor 63» 13 Mar 2017, 17:11
Tell me what he is missing
Adenium from seeds
Message Love» 13 Mar 2017, 17:58
Adenium from seeds
Message tanchela» March 13, 2017, 6:12 pm
Adenium from seeds
Message Igor 63» 13 Mar 2017, 18:13
Adenium leaves dry out and fall off
Adenium leaves dry out and fall off
Adenium leaves dry out and fall off
Adenium leaves dry out and fall off
Adenium leaves dry out and fall off
Adenium leaves dry out and fall off
In general, I cleaned them up, treated the cuts with RanNet paste (all but the mini ones) and replanted them - it was high time, into wide pots, cut off the central root of some, put a circle from the bottom of a plastic cup under the roots so that the roots would not grow downwards (I tried to “twist the roots”). Well, let's see what happens, whether they survive or not, we'll see, as they say.
And it was a pity to throw away the tops, so I took them and planted them as an experiment.
