I never took off my hat. Caucasian papakha: customs and traditions

The word papakha itself is of Turkic origin, in the Fasmer dictionary it is specified that it is Azerbaijani. The literal translation is a hat. In Rus', the word papakha took root only in the 19th century, before that hats of a similar cut were called hoods. During the period of the Caucasian wars, the word papakha also migrated to the Russian language, but at the same time, other names formed from ethnonyms were also used in relation to a high fur hat. The Kabardinka (Kabardian hat) later became the Kubanka (its difference from the hat is, first of all, in height). In the Don troops, a papakha was called a trukhmenka for a long time.

A papakha is not just a hat. Neither in the Caucasus, where she comes from, nor among the Cossacks, a hat is considered an ordinary headdress, the task of which is only to keep warm. If you look at the sayings and proverbs about the hat, you can already understand a lot about its significance. In the Caucasus they say: “If the head is intact, it should have a hat on it”, “The hat is worn not for warmth, but for honor”, “If you have no one to consult with, consult with a hat”. The Cossacks have a saying that the two most important things for a Cossack are a saber and a hat.

Removing a hat is allowed only in special cases. In the Caucasus - almost never. You can’t take off your hat when someone is asked for something, the only exception is when they ask for forgiveness of blood feud. The specificity of the hat is that it does not allow you to walk with your head down. It is as if she "educates" a person herself, forcing him "not to bend his back."

Dagestan Cavalry Regiment

In Dagestan, there was also a tradition to make an offer with the help of a hat. When a young man wanted to marry, but was afraid to do it openly, he could throw a hat out the girl's window. If the hat did not fly back for a long time, then the young man could count on a favorable outcome. It was considered a serious insult to knock a hat off your head. If, in the heat of a dispute, one of the opponents threw a hat on the ground, then this meant that he was ready to stand until his death. It was possible to lose a hat only with a head. That is why hats were often worn with valuables and even jewelry.

Fun fact: The famous Azerbaijani composer Uzeyir Gadzhibekov, going to the theater, bought two tickets: one for himself, the second for his hat. Makhmud Esambaev was the only deputy of the Supreme Soviet of the USSR who was allowed to sit at meetings in a headdress. They say that Leonid Brezhnev, looking around the hall before the performance, saw Esambaev's hat and said: "Makhmud is in place, we can start."

Alexandre Dumas in a hat

Writer Alexandre Dumas (the one who wrote The Three Musketeers, The Count of Monte Cristo, The Iron Mask and other famous works) while traveling around the Caucasus somehow decided to take a picture in a hat. The photograph has survived to this day.

Papakhas are different. They differ both in the type of fur and in the length of the pile. Also in different regiments there are different types of embroidery on the top of dads. Before the First World War, hats were most often sewn from the fur of a bear, a ram and a wolf, these types of fur best of all helped soften a saber blow. There were also ceremonial hats. For officers and cadets, they were sheathed with a silver galloon 1.2 centimeters wide.

Since 1915, it was allowed to use gray hats. Don, Astrakhan, Orenburg, Semirechensk, Siberian Cossack troops wore hats similar to a cone with short fur. It was possible to wear hats of any shades, except for white, and during the period of hostilities - black. Hats of bright colors were also banned. The sergeants, sergeants and cadets had a white cruciform braid sewn on the top of the hat, and the officers, in addition to the braid, also had a galloon sewn on the device.

Don hats - with a red top and a cross embroidered on it, symbolizing the Orthodox faith. The Kuban Cossacks also have a scarlet top. Terek has blue. In the Trans-Baikal, Ussuri, Ural, Amur, Krasnoyarsk and Irkutsk parts, they wore black hats made of sheep's wool, but exclusively with a long pile.

We all know the expression: "Punch the cuffs." A cuff was a wedge-shaped cap sewn to a hat, which was common among the Don and Zaporozhye Cossacks in the 16th and 17th centuries. Before the battle, it was customary to put metal plates into the cuff, which protected the Cossack from checker strikes. In the heat of the fight, when it came to hand-to-hand combat, it was quite possible to fight back with a hat with a cuff, "cuff" the enemy.

Papakha from astrakhan fur

The most expensive and honorable hats are astrakhan hats, which are also called "Bukhara". The word Karakul comes from the name of one of the oases located on the Zerashvan River, which flows in Uzbekistan. Karakul was usually called the skins of lambs of the Karakul breed, taken a few days after the birth of the lamb. Generals' hats were made exclusively from astrakhan fur.

After the revolution, restrictions were imposed on the wearing of national clothes for the Cossacks. Hats replaced budyonovkas, but already in 1936 hats returned again as an element of clothing. Cossacks were allowed to wear low black hats. Two stripes were sewn on the cloth in the form of a cross, for officers of gold color, for ordinary Cossacks - black. In front of the dads, of course, a red star was sewn on. Terek, Kuban and Don Cossacks received the right to serve in the Red Army, and there were also Cossack troops at the parade in 1937. Since 1940, the hat has become an attribute of the military uniform of the entire senior command staff of the Red Army, and after the death of Stalin, hats have become fashionable among members of the Politburo.

| 18.11.2015

Papakha in the North Caucasus is a whole world and a special myth. In many Caucasian cultures, a man, on whose head a hat or a headdress in general, is a priori endowed with such qualities as courage, wisdom, self-esteem. The man who put on the hat, as if adjusted to it, trying to match the subject - after all, the hat did not allow the highlander to bow his head, and therefore - to bow to someone in a broad sense.

Not so long ago I was in the village of Tkhagapsh visiting Batmyz Tlif, the chairman of the village "Chile Khase". We talked a lot about the traditions of aul self-government, preserved by the Black Sea Shapsugs, and before leaving, I asked our hospitable host for permission to photograph him in a full-dress hat - and Batmyz seemed to rejuvenate before my eyes: immediately a different posture and a different look ...

Batmyz Tlif in his ceremonial astrakhan hat. Aul Tkhagapsh of the Lazarevsky district of the Krasnodar Territory. May 2012. Photo by the author

“If the head is intact, it should have a hat on it”, “The hat is worn not for warmth, but for honor”, “If you have no one to consult with, consult the hat” - an incomplete list of proverbs common among many mountain peoples of the Caucasus.

Many customs of the highlanders are associated with the hat - this is not only a headdress in which it is warm in winter and cool in summer; it is a symbol and a sign. A man should never take off his hat if he asks someone for something. With the exception of only one case: a hat can be removed only when they ask for forgiveness of blood feud.

In Dagestan, a young man, afraid to openly woo a girl he liked, once threw a hat in her window. If the hat remained in the house and did not immediately fly back, then you can count on reciprocity.

It was considered an insult if a hat was knocked off a person's head. If the person himself took off and left the hat somewhere, no one had the right to touch it, realizing that they would deal with its owner.

Journalist Milrad Fatulaev recalls in his article a well-known case when, going to the theater, the famous Lezgin composer Uzeyir Gadzhibekov bought two tickets: one for himself, the second for his hat.

They did not take off their hats indoors either (with the exception of the hood). Sometimes, taking off the hat, they put on a light hat made of cloth. There were also special night hats - mainly for the elderly. Highlanders shaved or cut their heads very short, which also preserved the custom of constantly wearing some kind of headdress.

The oldest form was considered high shaggy hats with a convex top made of soft felt. They were so high that the top of the cap leaned to the side. Information about such hats was recorded by Evgenia Nikolaevna Studenetskaya, a famous Soviet ethnographer, from the old people of Karachays, Balkars and Chechens, who kept the stories of their fathers and grandfathers in their memory.

There was a special kind of papakhas - shaggy hats. They were made from sheepskin with a long pile outside, padding them with sheepskin with sheared wool. These hats were warmer, better protected from rain and snow flowing into a long fur. For a shepherd, such a shaggy hat often served as a pillow.

For festive dads, they preferred small curly fur of young lambs (kurpei) or imported astrakhan fur.

Circassians in hats. The drawing was kindly provided to me by Timur Dzuganov, an Istrrik scientist from Nalchik.

Astrakhan hats were called "Bukhara". Hats made from the fur of Kalmyk sheep were also valued.

The shape of the fur hat could be varied. In his "Ethnological research on the Ossetians" V.B. Pfaf wrote: “The papakha is strongly subject to fashion: sometimes it is sewn very high, a arshin or more in height, and at other times quite low, so that it is only slightly higher than the caps of the Crimean Tatars.”

It was possible to determine the social status of the highlander and his personal preferences by the hat, only “it is impossible to distinguish a Lezgin from a Chechen, a Circassian from a Cossack by headdress. Everything is quite monotonous,” Milrad Fatullayev remarked subtly.

At the end of the 19th - beginning of the 20th centuries. hats made of fur (sheepskin with long wool) were used mainly as shepherd's hats (Chechens, Ingush, Ossetians, Karachays, Balkars).

A high astrakhan hat was common in Ossetia, Adygea, flat Chechnya and rarely in the mountainous regions of Chechnya, Ingushetia, Karachay and Balkaria.

At the beginning of the 20th century, low, almost to the head, tapering hats made of astrakhan fur came into fashion. They were worn mainly in the cities and adjacent areas of planar Ossetia and in Adygea.

Hats were and are expensive, so rich people had them. Rich people had up to 10-15 dads. Nadir Khachilaev said that he bought a cap in Derbent of a unique iridescent golden hue for one and a half million rubles.

After the First World War, a low hat (band 5-7 sam) with a flat bottom made of fabric spread in the North Caucasus. The band was made from kurpei or astrakhan. The bottom, cut from one piece of fabric, was at the level of the top line of the band and was sewn to it.

Such a hat was called a kubanka - for the first time they began to wear it in the Kuban Cossack army. And in Chechnya - a carbine, because of its low height. Among the youth, it supplanted other forms of papakh, and among the older generation, it coexisted with them.

The difference between Cossack hats and mountain hats is in their diversity and lack of standards. Mountain hats are standardized, Cossack hats are based on the spirit of improvisation. Each Cossack army in Russia was distinguished by its hats in terms of the quality of fabric and fur, shades of color, shape - hemispherical or flat, dressing, sewn-on ribbons, seams, and, finally, in the manner of wearing those very hats.

Hats in the Caucasus were very cherished - they kept them, covering them with a scarf. When traveling to a city or on a holiday in another village, they carried a festive hat with them and put it on only before entering, taking off a simpler hat or a felt hat.

Papakha (from Turkic papakh), the name of a male fur headdress common among the peoples of the Caucasus. The shape is varied: hemispherical, with a flat bottom, etc. The Russian papakha is a high (rarely low) cylindrical hat made of fur with a cloth bottom. In the Russian army from the middle of the 19th century. The papakha was the headdress of the troops of the Caucasian Corps and all Cossack troops, since 1875 - also of the units stationed in Siberia, and since 1913 - the winter headdress of the entire army. In the Soviet Army, colonels, generals and marshals wear a papakha in winter.

Highlanders never take off their hats. The Qur'an prescribes to cover the head. But not only and not so much believers, but also "secular" Muslims and atheists treated the papakha with special respect. This is an older, non-religious tradition. From an early age in the Caucasus, it was not allowed to touch the boy's head, even paternal strokes were not allowed. Even hats were not allowed to be touched by anyone except the owner or with his permission. The very wearing of the attire from childhood developed a special stature and demeanor, did not allow bowing the head, let alone bowing. The dignity of a man, they believe in the Caucasus, is still not in trousers, but in a hat.

The papakha was worn all day long, the old people did not part with it even in hot weather. Arriving home, they filmed it theatrically, certainly carefully clasping it with their hands on the sides, and carefully laying it on a flat surface. Putting it on, the owner brushes off the speck with his fingertips, cheerfully ruffles it, placing clenched fists inside, “fluffs” and only then pushes it from his forehead to his head, holding the back of the headgear with his index and thumb. All this emphasized the mythologized status of the hat, and in the mundane sense of the action, it simply increased the service life of the hat. He wore out less. After all, fur is hatched first of all where it comes into contact. Therefore, they touched the upper back with their hands - the bald patches are not in sight. In the Middle Ages, travelers in Dagestan and Chechnya observed a picture that was strange for them. There is a poor highlander in a worn-out and more than once repaired Circassian coat, trampled charyks on his bare feet with straw inside instead of socks, but on his proudly planted head he flaunts, like a stranger, a big shaggy hat.

Papakha was interestingly used by lovers. In some Dagestan villages there is a romantic custom. A timid young man in the conditions of harsh mountain morality, seizing the moment so that no one sees him, throws a hat into the window of his chosen one. With hope for reciprocity. If the hat does not fly back, you can send matchmakers: the girl agrees.

Of course, the careful attitude concerned, first of all, dear astrakhan dads. A hundred years ago, only wealthy people could afford them. Karakul was brought from Central Asia, as they would say today, from Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan. He was and still is dear. Only a special breed of sheep, or rather, three-month-old lambs, will do. Then the astrakhan fur on the babies, alas, straightens up.

It is not known who owns the palm in the manufacture of cloaks - the story is silent about this, but the same story testifies that the best "Caucasian fur coats" were made and are still being made in Andi, a high-mountainous village in the Botlikh region of Dagestan. Two centuries ago, cloaks were taken to Tiflis, the capital of the Caucasian province. The simplicity and practicality of cloaks, unpretentious and easy to wear, have long made them the favorite clothing of both the shepherd and the prince. Rich and poor, regardless of faith and nationality, horsemen and Cossacks ordered cloaks and bought them in Derbent, Baku, Tiflis, Stavropol, Essentuki.

There are many legends and legends associated with burkas. And even more ordinary everyday stories. How to kidnap a bride without a burqa, how to protect yourself from a stabbing blow from a dagger or a chopping swing of a saber? On a cloak, as on a shield, they carried the fallen or wounded from the battlefield. A wide "hem" covered both themselves and the horse from the sultry mountain sun and dank rain on long hikes. Wrapped up in a cloak and pulling a shaggy sheepskin coat over your head, you can sleep right in the rain on a mountainside or in an open field: water will not get inside. During the years of the Civil War, the Cossacks and Red Army soldiers were "treated with a cloak": they covered themselves and the horse with a warm "fur coat", or even two, and let their fighting friend gallop. After several kilometers of such a race, the rider was steamed, as in a bathhouse. And the leader of the peoples, Comrade Stalin, who was suspicious of medicines and did not trust doctors, more than once boasted to his comrades of the “Caucasian” method he had invented to drive out a cold: “You drink a few cups of hot tea, dress warmly, cover yourself with a cloak and hat and go to bed. In the morning - like glass."

Today, cloaks have become almost decorative, leaving everyday life. But until now, in some villages of Dagestan, the elderly, unlike the "windy" youth, do not allow themselves to deviate from customs and come to any celebration or, conversely, a funeral without a cloak. And shepherds prefer traditional clothes, despite the fact that today mountaineers are better warmed in winter by down jackets, "Alaskas" and "Canadians".

Three years ago, in the village of Rakhata, Botlikh region, an artel for the production of buroks was working, where the famous "Andiyka" were made. The state decided to unite the craftswomen into one household, despite the fact that all the production of cloaks is exclusively handmade. During the war, in August 1999, the Rakhat artel was bombed. It is a pity that the unique museum opened at the artel is the only one of its kind: the exhibits are mostly destroyed. For more than three years, the director of the artel, Sakinat Razhandibirova, has been trying to find funds to restore the workshop.

Local residents are skeptical about the possibility of restoring the enterprise for the production of buroks. Even in the best years, when the state acted as the customer and buyer, women made cloaks at home. And today, cloaks are made only by order - mainly for dance ensembles and for souvenirs for distinguished guests. Burki, like Mikrakh carpets, Kubachi daggers, Kharbuk pistols, Balkhar jugs, Kizlyar cognacs, are the hallmarks of the Land of Mountains. Caucasian fur coats were presented to Fidel Castro and Secretary General of the Communist Party of Canada William Kashtan, cosmonaut Andriyan Nikolaev and Sergei Stepashin, Viktor Chernomyrdin and Viktor Kazantsev... It's probably easier to say who among those who visited Dagestan did not try it on.

Having finished her housework, Zukhra Dzhavatkhanova from the village of Rakhata takes up her usual simple craft in a remote room: the work is dusty - it requires a separate room. For her and her family of three, this is a small, but still income. On the spot, the product costs from 700 to 1000 rubles, depending on the quality, in Makhachkala it is already twice as expensive, in Vladikavkaz - three times more. There are few buyers, so there is no need to talk about stable earnings. Well, if you can sell a couple a month. When a wholesale buyer "for ten or twenty pieces" comes to the village, usually a representative of one of the choreographic groups, he has to look into a dozen houses: every second household in the village rolls cloaks for sale.
"Three days and three women"

Known since ancient times, the technology for making buroks has not changed, except that it has become a little worse. Through simplification. Previously, a broom made of flax stalks was used to comb the wool, now they use iron combs, and they tear the wool. The rules for making a burqa are reminiscent of a gourmet recipe with their strictness. Particular attention is paid to the quality of raw materials. The wool of the so-called mountain-Lezgin coarse-haired breed of sheep of autumn shearing is preferable - it is the longest. Lambs are also thin and tender. Black is a classic, basic color, but buyers, as a rule, order white, "gift-dance".

To make a burqa, as the Andians say, "it takes three days and three women." After the wool has been washed and combed on a hand loom, it is divided into long and short: for the manufacture of the upper and lower parts of the cloak, respectively. Wool is loosened with the most ordinary bow with a bowstring, put on a carpet, moistened with water, twisted and knocked down. The more times this procedure is done, the better - thinner, lighter and stronger - the canvas is obtained, i.e. knocked down, compacted wool. A good cloak, usually weighing about two or three kilograms, should stand upright without sagging when placed on the floor.

The canvas is simultaneously twisted, periodically combing. And so hundreds and hundreds of times over the course of several days. Hard work. The canvas is run in and beaten with hands, the skin on which turns red, covered with many small wounds, which eventually turn into one continuous callus.

So that the cloak does not let water through, it is boiled for half a day over low heat in special boilers, adding iron vitriol to the water. Then they are treated with casein glue so that “icicles” form on the wool: water will flow down them in the rain. To do this, several people hold a cloak soaked in glue above the water upside down "head" - just like a woman washes her long hair. And the final touches - the upper edges of the cloak are sewn together, forming shoulders, and the lining is hemmed, "so as not to wear out quickly."

The craft will never die, - Abdulla Ramazanov, head of the administration of the Botlikh region, is convinced. - But the cloaks will come out of everyday life - this is too hard. Recently, the Andians have had competitors in other Dagestan villages. Therefore, we have to look for new markets. We take into account the whims of customers: burkas have changed in size - they are made not only for men, but also for children. The production of tiny products that are put on bottles of champagne or cognac has become original - an exotic gift.

Burki can be made anywhere, the technology is simple, if only the raw materials were appropriate. And this can be problematic. The absence of the former mass demand and the termination of the state order for cloaks led to a decrease in the number of mountain-Lezgin coarse-wool sheep breeds. It becomes a rarity in the mountains. A few years ago, the republic was seriously talking about the threat of extinction of the breed. She is being replaced by a fat-tailed breed of sheep. From a three-year-old lamb of this breed, grown in alpine meadows, the best kebabs are obtained, the demand for which, unlike buroks, is increasing.

Cherke?ska(abh. ak?imzh?s; lezg. Chukha; cargo. ????; Ingush chokhi; kabard.-cherk. tsey; Karach.-Balk. chepken; Osset. tsukhha; arm. ?????; Chech. chokhib) - the Russian name for outerwear for men - a caftan, which was common in everyday life among many peoples of the Caucasus. The Circassian was worn by the Circassians (Circassians), Abazins, Abkhazians, Balkars, Armenians, Georgians, Ingush, Karachays, Ossetians, Chechens, peoples of Dagestan and others. Historically, the Terek and Kuban Cossacks borrowed the Circassian coat. At present, it has practically fallen out of use as everyday wear, but has retained its status as ceremonial, festive or folk.

The Circassian is probably of Turkic (Khazarian) origin. It was a common type of clothing among the Khazars, from which it was borrowed by other peoples inhabiting the Caucasus, including the Alans. The first image of the Circassian (or its prototype) is displayed on the Khazar silver dishes.

The Circassian coat is a single-breasted caftan without a collar. It is made from cloth of non-disguising dark colors: black, brown or gray. Usually slightly below the knees (to warm the rider's knees), the length may vary. It is cut at the waist, with gatherings and folds, girdled with a narrow belt, the belt buckle served as a flint for striking fire. Since everyone was a warrior, it was clothing for battle, it should not have hampered movements, so the sleeves were wide and short, and only the old men had long sleeves - warming the hands. A distinctive feature and a well-recognized element are gazyri (from the Turkic "khazyr" - "ready"), special pockets intercepted with braid for pencil cases, more often bone ones. In the pencil case was a measure of gunpowder and a bullet wrapped in a rag, cast for a particular gun. These pencil cases made it possible to load a flintlock or matchlock gun at full gallop. In the extreme pencil cases, located almost under the armpits, they kept dry chips for kindling. After the appearance of guns that ignite a charge of gunpowder with a primer, primers were stored. For the holidays they wore a longer and thinner Circassian coat.

The friendship between the legend of Soviet cinema Vladimir Zeldin and the famous dancer, the "magician of dance" Makhmud Esambaev lasted more than half a century. Their acquaintance began on the set of Ivan Pyryev’s film “The Pig and the Shepherd”, which became a film debut for both Zeldin and Esambaev.

Esambaev, who arrived in Moscow at the age of 17, worked part-time at Mosfilm. In Pyryev's picture, he got the role of a friend of the Dagestan shepherd Musaib, played by Zeldin. In the scene when Zeldin is walking along the alley of the Exhibition of Achievements of the National Economy and collides with Glasha, they are surrounded by highlanders, friends of Musaib. One of them was Mahmud Esambaev.

In one of his interviews, Vladimir Zeldin told how the director of the film, Ivan Pyryev, commanded all the time: “Keep your head down! Don't look at the movie camera!" It was he who turned to Mahmud, who now and then looked over his shoulder, trying to get into the frame. Everyone wanted to be noticed - a naive, funny, cheerful guy in a black Circassian coat, ”says Zeldin.

Once, during a break between filming, Zeldin sent young Esambaev for lemonade - the actor was tormented by thirst, and he himself had no time to run. Gave Mahmud 15 kopecks. He gladly ran to fulfill the order, but brought two bottles instead of one - as a true Caucasian showed respect. Thus began the friendship of two legendary people. Subsequently, when Esambaev became a great dancer, for the sake of a joke, he always recalled Zeldin the times when he “chased him for a bottle”, said that Zeldin owed him 15 kopecks ...

Zeldin has repeatedly emphasized that he always treated Caucasians with respect, he never hid that he had many Caucasian friends - Azerbaijanis, Georgians, Dagestanis, Chechens, etc. “Since my student years, I loved the Circassian coat, the hat, these boots, soft and sliding, and in general I sympathized with the peoples of the Caucasus,” Zeldin said. - I really like to play them, they are amazingly beautiful, unusually musical, plastic people. When I play, I feel this Caucasian spirit. I know their traditions quite well and I feel good, organically in their national clothes. Even the fans somehow gave me all this “Caucasian uniform”.

And once Mahmud Esambaev presented Zeldin with his famous silver cap, which he wore in public without taking off, and which became an inseparable part of the everyday image of its owner. If you know what this hat meant for Esambaev, you can say that he gave Zeldin a truly royal gift, tore it from his heart.

Why Esambaev never takes off his hat was the subject of endless jokes and conversations. And the answer is simple - such a tradition, mountain etiquette: a Caucasian man never bares his head. Zeldin noted in this regard that Mahmud was "an amazing guardian of the national culture."

Esambaev himself jokingly used to say that even a Caucasian man goes to bed in a hat. Mahmud Esambaev was the only person in the USSR who was allowed to take a passport photo in a traditional headdress. So strong was the respect for him. Esambaev never took off his hat in front of anyone - neither in front of presidents, nor in front of kings. And on his 70th birthday, Zeldina said that he was taking off his hat in front of his talent and presented it with the words that he was giving the most precious thing he had.

In response, Zeldin danced Esambaev's lezginka. And since then, the actor kept a gift from a dear friend, sometimes he wore it to concerts.

For a bright life, Zeldin received many gifts from famous people. He had a unique double-barreled shotgun with a dedicatory engraving from Marshal Zhukov, the painting “Don Quixote”, which Nikas Safronov painted especially for Zeldin, an icon from the Spanish La Mancha, all kinds of orders - three orders of the Red Banner of Labor, the Order of Friendship, the Order of the Spanish King Juan II - for the one hundred and fiftieth performance of "The Man from La Mancha" in the year of the 400th anniversary of Cervantes. But the Esambaev hat has always remained the most expensive and sincere gift ...

Zeldin always considered Esambaev a great man. “Mahmud is a man sent to us by heaven. This is a man of legend. But this legend is real, the legend of the brightest deeds he showed. It's not just about generosity. It is a need to help do good. Pull a person out of the most incredible situations. The huge role of an example of existence and feeling of life. Mahmud is a great person because, despite his greatness, he saw a person, he could listen to him, help him, caress him with a word. This is a good man.

When he called me, without any preamble, he began to sing “Song of Moscow”: “And in which direction I will not be, on whatever grass I will pass ...” He did not just come to the house - he burst in. He arranged a whole performance from his parish ... A handsome man (ideal figure, wasp waist, posture), he lived beautifully, turning his life into a picturesque show. He treated beautifully, courted beautifully, spoke, dressed beautifully. He sewed only at his tailor, he did not wear anything ready, not even shoes. And he always wore a hat.

Mahmud was pure nugget. I didn't study anywhere, I didn't even finish high school. But nature was the richest. Incredible ability to work and incredible ambition, the desire to become a master ... The halls at his performances were crowded, he was a huge success, both throughout the Union and abroad ... And he was an open person, of extraordinary kindness and breadth. He lived in two cities - in Moscow and in Grozny. He had a house in Chechnya, where his wife Nina and daughter lived ... When Mahmud came to Moscow, his two-room apartment on Presnensky Val, where we often came, was immediately filled with friends. And God knows how many people were placed there, there was nowhere to sit. And the owner met the newly arrived guests in some unthinkably luxurious dressing gown. And everyone immediately felt at home with him: politicians, pop and theater people, his fans. In any company, he became its center ... He could stir up everything around him and please everyone ... "

The last time Vladimir Zeldin appeared in a hat was at the celebration of the 869th anniversary of Moscow in September this year on City Day, the main theme of which was the Year of Cinema. This release was the final chord in the long-term friendship of the two legendary artists.

More recently, the hat was considered to be an integral accessory of the proud highlanders. On this occasion, they even said that this headdress should be on the head while it is on the shoulders. Caucasians put much more content into this concept than the usual hat, they even compare it with a wise adviser. The Caucasian papakha has its own history.

Who wears a hat?

Now rarely any of the representatives of the modern youth of the Caucasus appears in society in a hat. But even some decades before that, the Caucasian hat was associated with courage, dignity and honor. To come with an uncovered head to a Caucasian wedding as an invitee was regarded as an insulting attitude towards the guests of the celebration.

Once upon a time, the Caucasian hat was loved and respected by everyone - both old and young. Often one could find a whole arsenal of papahs, as they say, for all occasions: for example, some for everyday wear, others for a wedding option, and still others for mourning. As a result, the wardrobe consisted of at least ten different hats. The pattern of the Caucasian hat was the wife of every real highlander.

military headdress

In addition to horsemen, Cossacks also wore a hat. Among the military personnel of the Russian army, the papakha was one of the attributes of the military uniform of some branches of the military. It differed from the one worn by the Caucasians - a low fur hat, inside of which there was a fabric lining. In 1913, a low Caucasian hat became a headdress in the entire tsarist army.

In the Soviet army, according to the charter, only colonels, generals and marshals were supposed to wear a hat.

Customs of the Caucasian people

It would be naive to think that the Caucasian hat in the form in which everyone is used to seeing it has not changed over the centuries. In fact, the peak of its development and the greatest distribution falls on the end of the 19th - beginning of the 20th centuries. Before this period, the heads of Caucasians were covered with fabric caps. In general, there were several types of hats, which were made from the following materials:

felt;
textile;
combination of fur and fabric.

Little known is the fact that in the 18th century, for some time, both sexes wore almost identical headdresses. Cossack hat, Caucasian hat - these hats were valued and took pride of place in the wardrobe of men.

Fur hats gradually begin to dominate, replacing other types of this garment. Adygs, they are also Circassians, until the beginning of the 19th century wore felt hats. In addition, pointed hoods made of cloth were common. Turkish turbans also changed over time - now fur hats were wrapped with white narrow pieces of fabric.

The aksakals were kind to their hats, kept in almost sterile conditions, each of them was specially wrapped with a clean cloth.

Traditions associated with this headdress

The customs of the peoples of the Caucasian region obligated every man to know how to properly wear a hat, in what cases to wear one or another of them. There are many examples of the relationship between the Caucasian hat and folk traditions:

Checking if a girl really loves a guy: you should have tried to throw your hat out of her window. Caucasian dances also served as a way of expressing sincere feelings towards the fair sex.
The romance ended when someone knocked down a hat to someone. Such an act is considered offensive, it could provoke a serious incident with very unpleasant consequences for someone. The Caucasian papakha was respected, and it was impossible to just pick it off your head.
A person could leave his hat somewhere due to forgetfulness, but God forbid someone touches it!
During the argument, the temperamental Caucasian took off his hat from his head, and heatedly threw it beside him on the ground. This could only mean that the man is convinced that he is right and is ready to answer for his words!
Almost the only and very effective act that can stop the bloody battle of hot horsemen is a handkerchief of some beauty thrown at their feet.
Whatever a man asks for, nothing should force him to take off his hat. An exceptional case is to forgive blood feud.

Caucasian hat today

The tradition of wearing a Caucasian hat fades into oblivion over the years. Now you have to go to some mountain village to make sure that it is still completely not forgotten. Maybe you'll be lucky to see it on the head of a local young man who decided to show off.

And among the Soviet intelligentsia there were representatives of the Caucasian peoples who honored the traditions and customs of their fathers and grandfathers. A striking example is the Chechen Makhmud Esambaev, People's Artist of the USSR, famous choreographer, choreographer and actor. Wherever he was, even at receptions with the leaders of the country, a proud Caucasian was seen in his hat-crown. There is either a true story or a legend that allegedly General Secretary L. I. Brezhnev began a meeting of the Supreme Soviet of the USSR only after he found Mahmud's hat among the delegates.

You can have different attitudes towards wearing a Caucasian hat. But, without a doubt, the following truth must remain unshakable. This headdress of the peoples is closely connected with the history of the proud Caucasians, the traditions and customs of their grandfathers and great-grandfathers, which every contemporary must sacredly honor and respect! The Caucasian hat in the Caucasus is more than a headdress!

Annotation: the genesis, evolution of the hat, its cut, ways and manner of wearing, the cult and ethical culture of the Chechens and Ingush are described.

Usually the Vainakhs have questions about when did the hat appear in the everyday life of the highlanders and how. My father Mokhmad-Khadzhi from the village. Elistanji told me a legend that he heard in his youth, connected with this headdress revered by the people and the reason for its cult.

Once, back in the 7th century, Chechens who wished to convert to Islam went on foot to the holy city of Mecca and met there with the Prophet Muhammad (peace be upon him) so that he would bless them for a new faith - Islam. The Prophet Muhammad, (peace and blessings be upon him), extremely surprised and saddened by the sight of the wanderers, and especially by his broken, bloody from a long journey legs, gave them astrakhan skins to wrap their legs with them for the way back. Having accepted the gift, the Chechens decided that it was unworthy to wrap their legs in such beautiful skins, and even accepted from such a great man as Muhammad (s.a.w.s.). Of these, they decided to sew high hats that need to be worn with pride and dignity. Since then, this type of honorary beautiful headdress has been worn by the Vainakhs with special reverence.

People say: “On a highlander, two elements of clothing should attract special attention - a headdress and shoes. The papakha should be of perfect cut, as a person who respects you looks into your face and accordingly sees a headdress. An insincere person usually looks at your feet, so shoes should be of high quality and polished to a shine.

The most important and prestigious part of the complex of men's clothing was a hat in all its forms that existed in the Caucasus. Many Chechen and Ingush jokes, folk games, wedding and funeral customs are associated with a hat. The headdress at all times was the most necessary and most stable element of the mountain costume. He was a symbol of masculinity and the dignity of a highlander was judged by his headdress. This is evidenced by various proverbs and sayings inherent in the Chechens and Ingush, recorded by us in the course of field work. “A man should take care of two things - a hat and a name. Papakha will be saved by the one who has a smart head on his shoulders, and the name will be saved by the one whose heart burns with fire in his chest. "If you have no one to consult with, consult with your father." But they also said this: "It is not always a magnificent hat that adorns a smart head." “A hat is worn not for warmth, but for honor,” the old people used to say. And therefore, the Vainakh had to have the best hat, they did not spare money for a hat, and a self-respecting man appeared in public in a hat. She wore it everywhere. It was not customary to take it off even at a party or indoors, whether it was cold or hot there, and also to transfer it to be worn by another person.

When a man died, his things were supposed to be distributed to close relatives, but the headdresses of the deceased were not presented to anyone - they were worn in the family if there were sons and brothers, if they were not, they were presented to the most respected man of their taip. Following that custom, I wear my late father's hat. They got used to the hat from childhood. I would like to especially note that for the Vainakhs there was no more valuable gift than a hat.

Chechens and Ingush traditionally shaved their heads, which also contributed to the custom of constantly wearing a headdress. And women, according to adat, do not have the right to wear (put on) a man's headdress, except for a felt hat worn during agricultural work in the field. There is also a sign among the people that a sister cannot put on her brother's hat, since in this case the brother may lose his happiness.

According to our field material, no item of clothing had as many varieties as a headdress. It had not only utilitarian, but often sacred meaning. A similar attitude to the cap arose in the Caucasus in antiquity and persists in our time.

According to field ethnographic materials, the Vainakhs have the following types of hats: khakhan, mesal kui - a fur hat, holkhazan, suram kui - astrakhan hat, zhaulnan kui - a shepherd's hat. The Chechens and Kists called the cap - Kui, the Ingush - cue, the Georgians - kudi. According to Iv. Javakhishvili, Georgian kudi (hat) and Persian hud are the same word, which means a helmet, i.e. an iron hat. This term also meant hats in ancient Persia, he notes.

There is another opinion that Chech. kui is borrowed from the Georgian language. We do not share this point of view.

We agree with A.D. Vagapov, who writes that forge a “hat”, obshchena. (*kau > *keu- // *kou-: Chech. dial. kuy, kudah kuy. Therefore, we use Indo-European material for comparison: *(s)keu- “to cover, cover”, Proto-German *kudhia, Iranian *xauda “hat, helmet”, Persian xoi, xod “helmet.” These facts indicate that the –d- we are interested in is most likely an expander of the root kuv- // kui-, as in Indo-E.* (s)neu- “twist”, *(s)noud- “twisted; knot”, Persian nei “reed”, the corresponding Chechen nui “broom”, nuyda “braided button.” So the question of borrowing Chech. kui from the Georgian language remains open.As for the name suram: suram-kui "astrakhan hat", its origin is unclear.

Possibly related to the Taj. sur "a variety of brown astrakhan with light golden ends of the hair." And further, this is how Vagapov explains the origin of the term kholkhaz “karakul” “Actually Chechen. In the first part - huol - "gray" (cham. hholu-), khal - "skin", oset. hal - "thin skin". In the second part - the basis - khaz, corresponding to lezg. khaz "fur", tab., tsakh. haz, udin. hez "fur", varnish. haz. "fitch". G. Klimov derives these forms from Azeri, in which haz also means fur (SKYA 149). However, the latter itself comes from the Iranian languages, cf., in particular, Persian. haz "ferret, ferret fur", Kurd. xez "fur, skin". Further, the geography of distribution of this basis is expanding at the expense of other Russian. hz "fur, leather" hoz "morocco", Rus. farm "tanned goat skin". But sur in the Chechen language means another army. So, we can assume that suram kui is a warrior's hat.

Like other peoples of the Caucasus, among the Chechens and Ingush, headdresses were typologically divided according to two characteristics - material and form. Hats of various shapes, made entirely of fur, belong to the first type, and to the second - hats with a fur band and a head made of cloth or velvet, both types of these hats are called hats.

On this occasion, E.N. Studenetskaya writes: “Sheep skins of different quality served as the material for the manufacture of papakh, and sometimes the skins of goats of a special breed. Warm winter hats, as well as shepherd's hats, were made from sheepskin with a long nap outward, often padded with sheepskin with trimmed wool. Such hats were warmer, better protected from rain and snow flowing from long fur. For a shepherd, a shaggy hat often served as a pillow.

Long-haired hats were also made from the skins of a special breed of rams with silky, long and curly hair or Angora goat skins. They were expensive and rare, they were considered ceremonial.

In general, for festive dads, they preferred small curly fur of young lambs (kurpei) or imported astrakhan fur. Astrakhan hats were called "Bukhara". Hats made from the fur of Kalmyk sheep were also valued. “He has five hats, all made of Kalmyk lamb, he wears them out, bowing to the guests.” This praise is not only hospitality, but also wealth.

In Chechnya, hats were made quite high, widened at the top, with a band protruding above a velvet or cloth bottom. In Ingushetia, the height of the hat is slightly lower than the Chechen one. This, apparently, is due to the influence of the cut of hats in neighboring Ossetia. According to the authors A.G. Bulatova, S. Sh. they are sewn from lambskin or astrakhan with a cloth top. All the peoples of Dagestan call this hat "Bukhara" (meaning that the astrakhan fur, from which it was mostly sewn, is brought from Central Asia). The head of such papakhas was made of brightly colored cloth or velvet. The papakha made of golden Bukhara astrakhan was especially appreciated.

Avars of Salatavia and Lezgins considered this hat to be Chechen, Kumyks and Dargins called it “Ossetian”, and Laks called it “Tsudahar” (probably because the masters - hatters were mainly Tsudakhari). Perhaps it entered Dagestan from the North Caucasus. Such a hat was a formal form of a headdress, it was worn more often by young people, who sometimes had several tires made of multi-colored fabric for the bottom and often changed them. Such a hat consisted, as it were, of two parts: a cloth cap quilted on cotton, sewn to the shape of the head, and attached to it from the outside (in the lower part) high (16-18 cm) and wide to the top (27 cm) fur band.

The Caucasian astrakhan hat with a band slightly widened upwards (over time, its height gradually increased) was and remains the most favorite headdress of the Chechen and Ingush old people. They also wore a sheepskin hat, which the Russians called papakha. Its shape changed in different periods and had its own differences from the caps of other peoples.

From ancient times in Chechnya there was a cult of a headdress for both women and men. For example, a Chechen guarding some object could leave his hat and go home for lunch - no one touched it, because he understood that he would deal with the owner. To remove a hat from someone meant a deadly quarrel; if a highlander took off his hat and hit it on the ground, this meant that he was ready to do anything. “Tearing or knocking a hat off someone's head was considered a great insult, just like cutting off the sleeve of a woman's dress,” said my father Magomed-Khadzhi Garsaev.

If a person took off his hat and asked for something, it was considered indecent to refuse his request, but on the other hand, the person who applied in this way enjoyed a bad reputation among the people. “Kera kui bittina hilla tseran isa” - “They got it in their hands by beating their hats,” they said about such people.

Even during the fiery, expressive, fast dance, the Chechen was not supposed to drop his headdress. Another amazing custom of the Chechens associated with a headdress: the hat of its owner could replace it during a date with a girl. How? If a Chechen guy for some reason could not get on a date with a girl, he sent his close friend there, handing him his headdress. In this case, the hat reminded the girl of her beloved, she felt his presence, the conversation of a friend was perceived by her as a very pleasant conversation with her fiancé.

The Chechens had a hat and, in truth, still remains a symbol of honor, dignity or "cult".

This is confirmed by some tragic incidents from the life of the Vainakhs during their stay in exile in Central Asia. Prepared by the absurd information of the NKVD officers that the Chechens and Ingush deported to the territory of Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - horned cannibals, representatives of the local population, out of curiosity, tried to rip high hats from the special settlers and find the notorious horns under them. Such incidents ended with either a brutal fight or murder, because. The Vainakhs did not understand the actions of the Kazakhs and considered this an encroachment on their honor.

On this occasion, it is permissible to cite one tragic case for the Chechens. During the celebration of Eid al-Adha by Chechens in the city of Alga of Kazakhstan, the commandant of the city, an ethnic Kazakh, appeared at this event and began to make provocative speeches against Chechens: “Are you celebrating Bayram? Are you Muslims? Traitors, murderers. You have horns under your hats! Come on, show them to me! - and began to tear off the hats from the heads of respected elders. Dzhanaraliev Zhalavdi from Elistan tried to besiege him, warning that if he touched his headdress, he would be sacrificed in the name of Allah in honor of the holiday. Ignoring what was said, the commandant rushed to his hat, but was knocked down with a powerful blow of his fist. Then the unthinkable happened: driven to despair by the most humiliating action of the commandant for him, Zhalavdi stabbed him to death. For this he received 25 years in prison.

How many Chechens and Ingush were imprisoned then, trying to defend their dignity!

Today we all see how Chechen leaders of all ranks wear hats without taking them off, which symbolizes national honor and pride. Until the last day, the great dancer Makhmud Esambaev proudly wore a hat, and even now, passing the new third ring of the highway in Moscow, you can see a monument over his grave, where he is immortalized, of course, in his hat.

NOTES

1. Javakhishvili I.A. Materials for the history of the material culture of the Georgian people - Tbilisi, 1962. III - IV. S. 129.

2. Vagapov A.D. Etymological dictionary of the Chechen language // Lingua-universum - Nazran, 2009. P. 32.

3. Studenetskaya E.N. Clothes // Culture and life of the peoples of the North Caucasus - M., 1968. S. 113.

4. Bulatova, A.G.

5. Arsaliev Sh. M-Kh. Ethnopedagogics of the Chechens - M., 2007. P. 243.

Since ancient times, the Chechens had a cult of a headdress - both female and male. A Chechen's hat - a symbol of honor and dignity - is part of the costume. " If the head is intact, it should have a hat»; « If you have no one to consult with, consult with dad"- these and similar proverbs and sayings emphasize the importance and obligation of a hat for a man. With the exception of the hood, hats were not removed indoors either.

When traveling to the city and to important, responsible events, as a rule, they put on a new, festive hat. Since the hat has always been one of the main items of men's clothing, young people sought to acquire beautiful, festive hats. They were very cherished, kept, wrapped in pure matter.

Knocking someone's hat off was considered an unprecedented insult. A person could take off his hat, leave it somewhere and leave for a while. And even in such cases, no one had the right to touch her, realizing that he would deal with her master. If a Chechen took off his hat in a dispute or quarrel and hit it on the ground, this meant that he was ready to do anything, to the end.

It is known that among the Chechens, a woman who took off and threw her scarf at the feet of those fighting to the death could stop the fight. Men, on the contrary, cannot take off their hats even in such a situation. When a man asks someone for something and takes off his hat at the same time, then this is considered baseness, worthy of a slave. In Chechen traditions, there is only one exception to this: a hat can be removed only when they ask for forgiveness of blood feuds.

Makhmud Esambaev, the great son of the Chechen people, a brilliant dancer, knew the price of a hat well and in the most unusual situations forced him to reckon with Chechen traditions and customs. He, traveling all over the world and being accepted in the highest circles of many states, did not take off his hat to anyone. Mahmoud never, under any circumstances, took off the world-famous hat, which he himself called the crown. Esambaev was the only deputy of the Supreme Soviet of the USSR who sat in a hat at all sessions of the highest authority of the Union. Eyewitnesses say that the head of the Supreme Council, L. Brezhnev, before the start of the work of this body, carefully looked into the hall, and, seeing a familiar hat, said: “ Mahmoud is in place, you can start". M. A. Esambaev, Hero of Socialist Labor, People's Artist of the USSR, throughout his life, creativity carried a high name - the Chechen konakh (knight).

Sharing with the readers of his book “My Dagestan” about the features of Avar etiquette and how important it is for everything and everyone to have their own individuality, originality and originality, the national poet of Dagestan Rasul Gamzatov emphasized: “There is a world-famous artist Makhmud Esambaev in the North Caucasus. He dances the dances of different nations. But he wears and never takes off his Chechen cap. Let the motives of my poems be varied, but let them walk in a mountain hat.

Hello dear blog readers. In the Caucasus, the saying has long been known: "If the head is intact, it should have a hat on it." Really, caucasian hat for the Caucasians themselves, it is more than just a headdress. Since childhood, I remember how my grandfather very often quoted some oriental sage: "If you have no one to consult with, then ask the papakha for advice."

Now it is quite rare to see a young man with a Caucasian hat on his head. A few decades ago, the hat personified masculinity and was a kind of symbol of honor and dignity. If a guy allowed himself to appear without a headdress, then it was considered almost an insult to all those invited.

Caucasian hat was loved and respected by all. I remember when we lived in, we had a neighbor who wore a new hat every day. We were very surprised and once he was asked where he got so many headdresses. It turned out that he inherited 15 selective dads from his father, which he wears with pleasure. The most interesting thing is that every time he went out to sit with local aksakals on an impromptu godekan, he put on a new hat. When he was invited to a wedding - another, if he was at a funeral, then a third flaunted on his head.

Caucasian hat - the personification of traditions and customs

Of course, Caucasian hats were not always the way we imagine them today. They received the most rapid development and distribution in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Before that, they mostly wore cloth hats. By the way, it should be noted that all hats of that time can be divided into four types according to the material made:

fabric hats
Hats that combine fabric and fur
Fur
Felt

Over time, fur hats almost everywhere replaced all other types of hats. The only thing to note is that felt hats were widespread among the Circassians until the beginning of the 19th century. Of course, this also includes "caps", Turkish turbans, which, by the way, were later very skillfully replaced by a small white fabric strip, which was wound around a fur hat.

But, all these nuances are more interesting for researchers. I won’t be mistaken if I assume that you are much more interested in finding out what place she occupied hat V. As noted above, any self-respecting man simply had to wear a hat on his head. Moreover, most often he had more than a dozen of them. There was also a whole system of papa service. I know that they were cherished like the apple of an eye and kept in special clean materials.

I think, after watching this video, you learned a lot about how folk traditions were combined with a Caucasian hat. For example, it was a great discovery for me when I learned that a young man threw his headdress into the window of his beloved in order to find out if his love was mutual. I know that they were often used to express their feelings to a girl.

It should be noted that not everything was so romantic and beautiful. Very often there were cases when it came to bloodshed just because a man's headdress was knocked off his head. This was considered a great insult. If a person himself took off his hat and left it somewhere, no one had the right to touch it, realizing that he would deal with its owner. It happened that in a quarrel a Caucasian took off his hat and hit it on the ground - this meant that he was ready to stand his ground to death.

As I said above, Caucasian youth in recent years have practically ceased to wear hats. Only in mountain villages you can meet guys who are happy to flaunt in these hats. Although, many great Caucasians (such as) never parted with their hats. The great dancer called his hat "Crown" and did not take it off even when he was received in the highest echelons of power. Moreover, Esambaev, being a deputy of the Supreme Soviet of the USSR, sat in a hat at all meetings of the highest authority of the Soviet Union. Rumor has it that L.I. Brezhnev looked around the hall before each meeting and, seeing a familiar hat, said: "Mahmud is in place - you can start."

In conclusion, I want to say this: whether or not to wear a Caucasian headdress is the business of every person, but I have no doubt that we simply must know and respect its significance in the lives of our fathers and grandfathers. Caucasian hat- this is our history, these are our legends and, perhaps, a happy future! Yes, watch another video about the hat:

Friends, it will be very interesting to discuss your views on the designated topic in the comments. Yes, and don't forget. Ahead of you are waiting for a lot of interesting and useful articles.

| 18.11.2015

Batmyz Tlif in his ceremonial astrakhan hat. Aul Tkhagapsh of the Lazarevsky district of the Krasnodar Territory. May 2012. Photo by the author

In Dagestan, a young man, afraid to openly woo a girl he liked, once threw a hat in her window. If the hat remained in the house and did not immediately fly back, then you can count on reciprocity.

There was a special kind of hats - shaggy hats. They were made from sheepskin with a long pile outside, padding them with sheepskin with sheared wool. These hats were warmer, better protected from rain and snow flowing into a long fur. For a shepherd, such a shaggy hat often served as a pillow.

For festive dads, they preferred small curly fur of young lambs (kurpei) or imported astrakhan fur.

Circassians in hats. The drawing was kindly provided to me by Timur Dzuganov, an Istrrik scientist from Nalchik.

Astrakhan hats were called "Bukhara". Hats made from the fur of Kalmyk sheep were also valued.

At the end of the 19th - beginning of the 20th centuries. hats made of fur (sheepskin with long wool) were used mainly as shepherd's hats (Chechens, Ingush, Ossetians, Karachays, Balkars).

A high astrakhan hat was common in Ossetia, Adygea, flat Chechnya and rarely in the mountainous regions of Chechnya, Ingushetia, Karachay and Balkaria.

For both the highlander and the Cossack, a hat is not just a hat. This is a matter of pride and honor. The hat cannot be dropped or lost; the Cossack votes for it in the circle. You can lose a hat only with your head.

Papakha is not just a hat

Neither in the Caucasus, where she comes from, nor among the Cossacks, a hat is considered an ordinary headdress, the task of which is only to keep warm. If you look at the sayings and proverbs about the hat, you can already understand a lot about its significance. In the Caucasus they say: “If the head is intact, it should have a hat on it”, “The hat is worn not for warmth, but for honor”, “If you have no one to consult with, consult with a hat”.

The Cossacks have a saying that the two most important things for a Cossack are a saber and a hat. Removing a hat is allowed only in special cases. In the Caucasus - almost never.

You can’t take off your hat when someone is asked for something, the only exception is when they ask for forgiveness of blood feud. The specificity of the hat is that it does not allow you to walk with your head down. It is as if she "educates" a person herself, forcing him "not to bend his back."

It was considered a serious insult to knock a hat off your head. If, in the heat of a dispute, one of the opponents threw a hat on the ground, then this meant that he was ready to stand until his death. It was possible to lose a hat only with your head, which is why valuable things and even jewelry were often worn in hats.

Fun fact: the famous Azerbaijani composer Uzeyir Gadzhibekov, going to the theater, bought two tickets: one for himself, the second for his hat. Makhmud Esambaev was the only deputy of the Supreme Soviet of the USSR who was allowed to sit at meetings in a headdress.

They say that Leonid Brezhnev, looking around the hall before the performance, saw Esambaev's hat and said: "Makhmud is in place, we can start."

Types of papakh

The sergeants, sergeants and cadets had a white cruciform braid sewn on the top of the hat, and the officers, in addition to the braid, also had a galloon sewn on the device. Don hats - with a red top and a cross embroidered on it, symbolizing the Orthodox faith. The Kuban Cossacks also have a scarlet top. Terek has blue. In the Trans-Baikal, Ussuri, Ural, Amur, Krasnoyarsk and Irkutsk parts, they wore black hats made of sheep's wool, but exclusively with a long pile.

In response, Zeldin danced Esambaev's lezginka. And since then, the actor kept a gift from a dear friend, sometimes he wore it to concerts.

Who wears a hat?

military headdress

In the Soviet army, according to the charter, only colonels, generals and marshals were supposed to wear a hat.

Customs of the Caucasian people

felt;
textile;
combination of fur and fabric.

The aksakals were kind to their hats, kept in almost sterile conditions, each of them was specially wrapped with a clean cloth.

Traditions associated with this headdress

Checking if a girl really loves a guy: you should have tried to throw your hat out of her window. Caucasian dances also served as a way of expressing sincere feelings towards the fair sex.
The romance ended when someone knocked down a hat to someone. Such an act is considered offensive, it could provoke a serious incident with very unpleasant consequences for someone. The Caucasian papakha was respected, and it was impossible to just pick it off your head.
A person could leave his hat somewhere due to forgetfulness, but God forbid someone touches it!
During the argument, the temperamental Caucasian took off his hat from his head, and heatedly threw it beside him on the ground. This could only mean that the man is convinced that he is right and is ready to answer for his words!
Almost the only and very effective act that can stop the bloody battle of hot horsemen is a handkerchief of some beauty thrown at their feet.
Whatever a man asks for, nothing should force him to take off his hat. An exceptional case is to forgive blood feud.

Caucasian hat today

In the Caucasus, it has always been an honor to wear a headdress. After all, it’s not for nothing that they say: “If you have a head, then it should have a hat on it.” Of course, times change, and with them, customs. Today, it is not so often that you will meet a person with a beautiful and straight posture, whose head is decorated with caucasian hat.

Indeed, a hat is a decoration and personification of honor for a man. Some 20-30 years ago, very curious traditions were spread in the outskirts of the Caucasus. For example, no one, under any circumstances, had the right to remove someone else's hat from their heads. This was regarded as an insult to the owner of the headgear and very often entailed unpleasant consequences.

But, not all traditions that related to wearing a hat were so tough. In the old days, a guy who wanted to show his feelings to a girl resorted to two methods - either he personally told her about it in a dance, while holding a Caucasian dagger in his teeth, or he approached her windows and threw his hat on. If the girl left her at home, then it was believed that she accepted the marriage proposal, but if the headdress flew out of the window back to the owner, then the guy understood that his proposal was rejected.

Papakha Caucasian - classification by type and quality of material

It is worth noting that hats in the Caucasus were not always the same as we are used to seeing them today. In the 19th century, the following types of papaches were most widespread among the male population of the mountainous region: fabric, a combination of fabric and fur, fur, felt. Subsequently, it was fur hats and hats that replaced all other types.

Today, hats are classified into the following types:

1. Astrakhan - is considered the most valuable and desirable. Although, there are a lot of pitfalls here. Finding a hat made from real astrakhan is not an easy task. A lot of people sell fakes under the guise of high-quality astrakhan fur. In the article about astrakhan hats and hats, you can read about the types and how to correctly and quickly determine the quality of astrakhan. Watch an interesting video of Caucasian headdresses:

2. Classical (shepherd) - the most common type of headdress in the Caucasus, especially in the mountainous part. Often this headdress is called a "folk hat" due to the fact that it is not very difficult to manufacture. There are many types and subspecies of such papakhas, many of them are presented in the category "Shepherd's hats".

3. Cossack hat - another species that has become widespread in the Caucasus, with the exception of the national republics. This headdress is especially popular with the Terek and Kuban Cossacks, which is natural.

In addition to the species classification, there is also a division according to the material produced within the species itself. The same astrakhan hats are most often made from natural astrakhan of three varieties: Valek, Pulat and Antika. We do not take into account artificial astrakhan or cheap Moldovan. Caucasian craftsmen use only natural varieties of astrakhan in their work.

Classical (shepherd's) hats are made from goat, sheep and mutton skins. The inhabitants classify these hats according to external features: color (white, black, brown), shaggy, the presence or absence of the smell of the skin, the length of the coat, etc.

An example of a shepherd's hat made of natural white goat skin:

An example of a shepherd's hat made of natural black sheepskin:

Professionals, in their practice, use completely different criteria (although all of the above also matter): the presence or absence of bald spots, wool density, the presence of curls, tailoring accuracy, the presence of a lace for adjusting the size.

We tried to take into account all these nuances when choosing a craftsman for making papah, presented in our online store. For 2.5 years, more than 2000 papakhas have already passed through our hands, and this allows us to assert that when choosing a papakha, the main selection criterion should be the quality of the material used and the accuracy of tailoring.

If you typed in the search engine something like - buy a hat, then be sure that you have come to the right place where you can choose the highest quality Caucasian headdress to your liking. All our hats are made by real professionals - folk craftsmen of Dagestan - Salman Rabadanov and Yakub Akhmedov. These are people who have been sewing daddies for decades and have already sewn more than 40,000 pieces in total!