Tips for quickly transferring images. How to transfer an image from paper to wood How to transfer an image from paper to a surface

In this tutorial, I will show you 5 different ways to print on wood. These are great methods to allow you to create custom designs such as signs, plaques, gifts, or simply brand your creations.

Step 1: Collect materials

Materials:

• pine board
• Liquitex gel medium

Step 2: Setting up

I tested 4 methods for transferring a drawing from paper to wood and one method using a technique. I used the same image on each board, which had my logo with a large block of text, an image, and regular sized text, so for each application you can see how well the wood responds to different applications.

All pictures were printed on my laser printer (not inkjet). I also mirrored the image so that it displays correctly on the tree.

Step 3: Method 1 - Acetone

The first method is to use acetone to transfer the toner to the wood. All you need is acetone, paper tissue, nitrile gloves to protect your hands, you can also use an old plastic card. When working with acetone, be careful and read the safety instructions.

I put the mirrored picture on the plywood and wrapped it around for a more secure fit. Then I dipped a tissue paper in acetone and applied it to the picture, pressing it firmly on top.

After several repetitions, the toner was transferred to the wood, and the paper lagged behind the wood.

Pros: very fast, decent image quality, clean process
Cons: Image quality is average, acetone is a strong chemical

Step 4: Method 2 - ironing

The next method is to use a regular iron. All you need to do is iron the paper. As in the previous step, I wrapped the paper around the piece of wood, and then ironed it, being careful not to move the sheet relative to the wood. I tried to press hard on the iron, and the iron itself was set to a high temperature, but it seems to me that the temperature was not high enough.

The picture came out so-so, and it seems to me that this was due to the fact that the iron did not heat the paper to a sufficient temperature. I have heard that using wax paper can improve the situation, and some craftsmen transfer the image using a soldering iron with a special tip for branding.

Pros: the cheapest method, done fairly quickly
Cons: poor image quality, the possibility of burning yourself, charring wood or paper

Step 5: Method 3 - Polyurethane Lacquer

The third method is based on the use of water-based polyurethane. I used Polycrylic (this is just the name of the manufacturing company, so you can buy any analogue). You need varnish, an acid brush, a hard toothbrush, and water.

I applied the polycrylic with a small brush, trying to create a thin film that was wet but not puddle. Then I pressed the paper directly onto the wet polycrilic and pressed the paper from the center outwards, removing any air trapped under the paper, and then moved the piece of wood to the side, where it dried for about an hour.

After the blank was dry, I moistened it with water, and then peeled as much paper as I could remove with my hands. Next, I took a toothbrush and brushed it gently over the surface until all the remaining paper was scraped off.

The quality turned out to be excellent! Everything except a small defect on the letter "F" looked very good. I was really surprised by this way of printing on wood.

Pros: excellent image quality, safe water-based coating
Cons: Removing paper is messy, takes an hour to dry

Step 6: Method 4 - Liquitex Gel Thinner

The fourth method was the gel solvent. I used Liquitex gloss, a foam brush, an old plastic card, a toothbrush and water.

The process is similar to the one that used varnish, the only difference is that we have a gel in our hands, not a liquid. It is better to work with the gel with foam, because the brush leaves a lot of tubercles and stripes.

I pressed the picture into the gel and removed the air that got under the paper, first with my fingers, and then with a plastic card. Then I left the blank to dry for 90 minutes, and then scraped off the paper with a toothbrush.

This option also looked great, but there were a few pieces of paper left on the tree that could not be scraped off with a brush.

Pros: excellent image quality, safe water-based gel
Cons: harder to remove than polycryl, the surface becomes rough, takes a long time to dry

Step 7: Method 5 - CNC Laser

So, now let's try the technological method. I had access to a Full Spectrum Laser Hobby 20x12 device and used it to render the same image. Setting up the device is very simple.

Image quality, as expected, was good. The only problem area was the photograph, which proved difficult for the laser to copy. But the text and logo, completely black in the photo, look great.

Pros: excellent text and logo detail, set up and the machine will do everything for you
Cons: Expensive to buy, hard to find to rent, doesn't do well with photography

Step 8: Applying the Finish Coat and Final Opinion

I decided to apply a lacquer finish to the finished pieces to see how the look of the items would change, and this procedure slightly changed my opinion about each of the methods I tested.

The acetone got very dark after varnishing and I liked the final look much more, so I place this result higher than the gel sample.

The option with an iron ... remained of poor quality.

Polycrilic darkened even more and began to look even better. This is a definite favorite in my ranking.

The gel also darkened, but the surface of the wood did not even out, and the pieces of paper that I could not remove were sticking out noticeably. To achieve a result similar to polycrylic, I had to spend a lot more time.

The version on the laser CNC almost did not darken, but became a little more like a scorched tree, the detailing was still excellent.

Hi all! I will show you a method of electrochemical engraving, with which you can transfer a drawing printed on a laser printer to a knife, cleaver, or any other metal surface. I will transfer the drawing from the computer to the spatula for clarity of the process.

Search for a picture

Printing a pattern

Translation of the picture into metal

Electrochemical etching of the pattern

• - water 50 ml.
• - salt, ordinary kitchen - half a teaspoon.

The result of transferring the pattern to metal

Afterword

Our blog already has one article about marking the picture on the wall. But in this section, we decided to talk more about this topic.

There are many ways to transfer pictures to the wall. Each of the methods is good in its own way and it is up to you to decide which one you will use. In the course of vast practice, We had to apply various methods, and sometimes even combine some of them. Knowledge and the ability to choose always make it easier to solve various problems on objects. And in this topic we will consider several options for applying an image to the wall.

The first and easiest way to transfer the image to the wall is the markup for the projector. It can be done in two ways: Marking with pencils and paints.

1) We take simple pencils and transfer every detail as accurately as possible, but remember that all this will need to be accurately drawn. Therefore, figure out in advance what exactly you are drawing, and do not mechanically redraw. At the next stage, you will need to figure out what each line means without a projector. It can be a light shadow or clear edges. Cover the light from the projector with your hand to see if you have marked everything. Sometimes it is necessary to pick up a sketch and mark it up by referring to the sketch, as the projector can turn some parts of the sketch into "mess".

2) The second way is marking with paints through the projector. This type of markup is not always used, but only in those cases where the image can be clearly divided into several colors, for example: if you draw a seascape in which there are palm trees, then the pencil markup will mislead you when you try to separate the gap from the leaves. In this example, we separate the foliage from the background in this way. Further, it is much easier for us to find what we need. Marking with paints allows us to immediately make this separation clear (gaps from the leaves), but keep in mind that marking with paints is much longer and this is just a markup, this markup will also require detailed drawing in the future.
For example: for a palm tree, it is best to mix three green colors at once, with these colors it is necessary to separate dark and light areas. We need clear three colors that are easy to separate from each other, because when projecting a projector on a wall, it is very difficult to see the difference in them, and then with good lighting, you can easily find each leaf and bring it to perfection.

Markup in other ways: we rarely resort to them, but there are objects where it is necessary.
1) Grid layout
The original drawing is drawn into cells. The size of the cells is determined depending on the size of the picture and on the saturation of its details. Then the wall is drawn into the same number of cells, observing the proportions of the wall and the sketch. Next, the lines from each cell of the eye sketch are transferred to the corresponding cell on the wall. And so on until the entire image is transferred to the wall.

2) Stencil marking. There are several types of stencil technique.

Reference stencil;

Medical stencil.

The template can be used several times. Its role is to quickly draw simple elements using an airbrush or balloons. You can read more in the article “What stencils for wall painting and movable patterns do we use in the Aron Honore studio?”

Reference stencil - serves once and for the complete transfer of the pattern. Its main task is to help in building, maintaining proportions, the location of the "light" and "shadow". It can be cut from almost any material. The main thing is that in the process it is convenient for you to paint through it.

Local stencil - used for only one artistic detail. Such elements are best cut out of self-adhesive film or thin paper, which should simply be fixed to the surface with masking tape. Often we use masking tape and film to cover any elements, carefully cutting the tape on the wall along the contour of the already outlined pattern.

An example of using our studio for some types of screen painting.

Sometimes it is necessary to repeat the same pattern a number of times. To do this, we make similar stencils. An example in our work "Creation of Adam" on the contours we use a similar stencil.

Or, for example, we stick adhesive tape on the already applied drawing with a pencil and cut out the contours. Thereby separating what is needed and closing what does not need to be painted over. But that's a slightly different story!)

The easiest way is with a filmoscope. Remember before there were such devices for viewing filmstrips, slides. Old overhead projector (photo 1) or such (photo 2).

photo 1

photo 2

Finding them is not easy, but it is quite possible at flea markets, in buyouts, on sites like Avito or from your friends. More modern projectors, with which you can project a frame (picture / drawing) from a flash drive (disk, camera), are sold in electronics stores, but their price is quite "biting" (25,000 - 100,000 rubles) and for a one-time transfer of a picture to the wall they are unlikely whether worth buying. If you or your friends have one, you are in luck.

Suppose you have found a filmoscope and it remains to transfer the necessary image to a slide. This can be done by contacting a photo lab, but not everyone now accepts such orders, unfortunately. You will have to look or contact familiar photographers, if any. This applies to a complex (multi-color, etc.) pattern. If you plan to transfer an image consisting of various lines (vector type or just lines) and you have certain skills, then you can (as an option) instead of making a special slide, draw a drawing with a needle or awl on an exposed film frame. The film itself (photo 3). An example of "art" (photo 4).

photo 3

photo 4

photo 5

photo 6

In addition, you can simplify the projection of the image in the following way: Print your drawing on a sheet of paper (the thinner and more transparent the sheet, the better) using a printer or printing house, etc. Then fix it (preferably on glass) with stretch marks (thread, adhesive tape) or in a frame. Place a table lamp behind it and project the translucent image, in the same way as above, onto the wall. Adjust the size of the picture by the distance to the wall. Naturally, the farther from the wall and the smaller the picture, the more blurry it will be. Example in photo 7.

Very often we face the question - how to transfer a drawing to paper? The question is very important, because all further work depends on the quality of the translated image. You have found a wonderful drawing in a book or magazine, or maybe you have a beautiful embroidery in front of you that you want to repeat - the topic of transferring a drawing to paper is for you!

We are faced with the task of transferring a clear, neat drawing from a sample drawing onto paper, which will then be transferred to another surface: fabric, leather, cardboard, paper, wood or plywood. In some cases, this drawing will itself be the basis for the work, for example, as a coloring book for children.

Let's take a look at several options for transferring a drawing to paper.

OPTION 1.

Let's start with the most interesting and rather old method, which has been used by several generations of craftsmen in their work. He enjoyed special respect among students, during whose time the technique for printing drawings and texts was not yet so accessible. A lot of neat term papers and theses went through GLASSING and were successfully defended.

In order for you to be able to transfer any drawing to paper using glazing, you need a table lamp, two chairs and glass of any size. That's all - you have a reliable manual copying "equipment" under your leadership! Let's look at what to do now and how to transfer a drawing to paper using glazing.

We put on the glass (approximately above the lamp) a sample from which we will reshoot the drawing.

We put a blank sheet of paper on this sample.

Sufficiently bright light of a table lamp allows you to clearly see the pattern through all layers of paper. We take a pencil and circle all the lines of the bottom drawing on the top blank sheet of paper.

In the event that you do not want pencil pressure damage on the bottom sheet, then trace the lines with light pressure. Then, turning off the lamp, take a pencil and trace the lines more clearly.

The work is finished, the patterns are transferred to a new sheet of paper. In this way, you can take pictures not only from a simple sheet, but also from any book and magazine.

Glazing is a great way to transfer a pattern onto paper!

Interestingly, the bright light of the lamp also breaks through the fabric, so you can reshoot the pattern from embroidered products. This is done in the same way as when working with paper.

The napkin lies on the glass above the lamp. A blank sheet of paper is superimposed on top and the entire pattern is circled in pencil. Keep in mind that the embroidery is slightly convex and the top clean sheet of paper will not lie tightly on the napkin.

The drawings translated by the glazing method are distinguished by accuracy. You can start work periodically, giving yourself time to rest, because the drawing lies in place without moving. This method is good for any drawings of any complexity.

OPTION 2.

If the drawing is small in size, then it can be transferred to paper on a regular WINDOW GLASS . Besides, there are moments when there is no opportunity and place to make a structure with glass, chairs and a lamp.

To prevent the bottom sample from moving, secure it to a blank sheet of paper with paper clips. A significant drawback when working - very quickly hands get tired.

OPTION 3.

Usage COPY PAPER for the translation of the picture is widely known. For work you need: a sample drawing, carbon paper, blank paper, a pencil or pen.

All this is stacked in this way - first a blank sheet, then a carbon paper with the ink side down, a sample of the drawing is placed on top. Staples are needed so that nothing moves during work.

With a pencil with pressure, all the lines of the drawing are circled, which remain on the bottom sheet of paper.

After finishing work, we remove the carbon paper - the drawing is completely printed on a sheet of paper.

There are several disadvantages of transferring a drawing through a carbon paper - the sample quickly wears out due to the frequent outline with a pencil, the work is sloppy, this method is suitable for relatively small drawings.

OPTION 4.

In some cases, you can transfer the drawing directly to a thin cigarette paper or more dense tracing paper.

This translucent paper is superimposed on a reference drawing, the outlines of which are outlined with a pencil or pen.

That's all. A lot has been written, but each of these options for transferring a drawing to paper needs to be known. The work of needlewomen is quite diverse - you don’t know when what knowledge will come in handy.

Let's sum up our manual" ways of translating a picture. So this is:

• glazing over a table lamp,
• window glazing,
• using copy paper
• using tracing paper or tissue paper.

But! .. Modernity makes its own adjustments to the work of craftsmen. Desired drawing if desired, you can already find it on the Internet. And the pattern you likescanned and printed electronically.As a result, you will have a ready-to-work drawing on paper in your hands.Due to the fact that there is no manual drawing, time is significantly saved and after printing, you can proceed directly to work.

If you have a photocopier nearby, then a sample drawing can be shot on it, if necessary, increasing or decreasing it in size. The person servicing this device knows its additional functions. You just say how many percent you would like to change the image.

So, the modern way of translating a picture is as follows:

• scan images from books and magazines and print,
• find the finished picture in electronic form and print,
• use photocopier to copy, printing and resizing the picture.

Copying, printing a picture of any format and color is made on modern technology in a matter of minutes. The print quality is wonderful.

But think about it, if many masters still transfer drawings onto paper with a simple pencil, then this manual method is not so bad ... Time-tested!

Thank you and see you on the pages!