Why does Dieffenbachia turn yellow? Dieffenbachia leaves turn yellow - how to help the plant? How to protect Dieffenbachia from insect pests, and why they appear Dieffenbachia is sick.

Dieffenbachia is native to South America and the Northern Tropics. The plant belongs to the Araceae family and blooms with a characteristic “cob” formation. It is characterized by rapid growth, throwing out a new leaf every two weeks, so it can reach the height of the ceiling, but only with proper care.

More about the flower

Indoor Dieffenbachia has a fleshy, thick stem with large oval leaves. Most varieties grow from the top, but some have a growing point at the base, so they form spreading bushes.

Dieffenbachia blooms at home extremely rarely. This does not make the plant less popular, since it is an ornamental foliage. Its main decoration is not the inflorescences, but the beautiful leaves.

Flower care

Growing a healthy specimen of Dieffenbachia is not difficult. The plant is considered quite unpretentious, but without the correct conditions of maintenance and watering it stops developing, withers and may die.

Lighting

Indoor varieties of Dieffenbachia need good lighting, but direct sunlight burns the green mass. Varieties covered with a decorative pattern are especially vulnerable. Plants with a single color are less demanding on lighting, so they can be located much further from color sources.

Temperature

The optimal level of plant maintenance varies from +15 to +30 degrees. The wide color range allows you to keep the flower on closed verandas, loggias, and balconies.

Dieffenbachia must be protected from drafts. Cold air negatively affects the condition of the flower, which quickly sheds its leaves. A drop in temperature below +15 degrees causes the death of the plant.

Humidity

Growing the crop requires a warm and humid microclimate. To compensate for excessive dry air, damp moss, sand, gravel or a container of water are placed on the tray.

In the warm season, the flower is periodically sprayed, and at temperatures below +18 degrees, wiped with a damp cloth. Once a week, the plant is given a hygienic shower.

Watering

Maternity crops from the tropics need a lot of moisture. Abundant and frequent watering requires good drainage. Otherwise, the water will begin to stagnate at the roots. Prolonged drought leads to the death of Dieffenbachia, so it is impossible to leave the flower without watering for a long time.

In winter, watering is reduced, but the earthen clod is not allowed to dry out. Otherwise, the flower will stop growing and developing. Only distilled water is used. The best liquid is considered to be passed through a filter.

Priming

The tropical ornamental foliage plant is grown in a special substrate for Dieffenbachia or representatives of the Araceae family. To prepare soil with neutral acidity at home, mix together:

• 4 parts of turf land;
• 1 part peat;
• 1 part sand;
• 1 part leaf soil.

To improve the composition of the substrate, brick chips or charcoal are added to the mixture. The introduction of a small amount of bone meal during planting allows you to enrich the soil with nutrients.

Circumcision

Dieffenbachia is characterized by rapid growth and many specimens need height adjustment. Pruning is recommended when the plant loses its lower foliage, which indicates natural aging. To stimulate young shoots to grow, the top part is cut off about 20 cm below the node.

Pruning is carried out with a disinfected pruner or sharp scissors, but in compliance with certain safety measures. The protruding milky sap burns the skin and mucous membranes, so pruning is carried out wearing gloves and safety glasses. The cut areas are dipped with a napkin and sprinkled with crushed activated carbon.

Top dressing

The evergreen plant is fertilized in spring and autumn. Varieties with completely green leaves are fed once every 10 days. It is necessary to use preparations that do not contain lime. Fertilizers are diluted twice as strong as indicated in the instructions.

It is better to feed variegated varieties with mineral fertilizers. The use of organics leads to the loss of the decorative pattern on the leaf plate. The frequency of enriching the soil with such fertilizing is every 20 days.

Transfer

Dieffenbachia is transplanted into a new pot when the old pot becomes too small for the overgrown rhizome, the ends of which begin to be visible in the drainage holes. The event is best held in the spring. If the crop is growing too actively, summer replanting may be required.

The new container is taken 3-4 centimeters deeper and wider. To avoid damaging the roots, the flower is replanted using the transshipment method. A drainage layer is laid out at the bottom of the pot, Dieffenbachia is placed with a lump of earth, and a nutrient substrate is poured around the edges. The plant is not fertilized for a month after transplantation, but abundant watering is provided.

Reproduction

Dieffenbachia, grown at home, blooms extremely rarely, so seed propagation is not used. It is much easier to obtain a new specimen from cuttings or aerial shoots.

Cuttings are separated with at least one node and leaf. The shoot is left for a day without water. The cuttings are laid horizontally on the ground and covered with film. When the plant sprouts, the pot is moved to a permanent place, watered and fed in the same way as an adult specimen.

Alternatively, the cut stem is placed in water until roots form and then the cutting is transplanted into a container. The disadvantage of this method is that Dieffenbachia grows asymmetrical.

The evergreen bush is propagated by aerial cuttings by making a cut on the stem, onto which damp moss is applied, and covered with an opaque film on top. New shoots appear slightly below the incision. They are removed and rooted in the ground.

Diseases and pests of indoor Dieffenbachia

The poisonous milky sap did not make the plant less attractive to pathogens and pests.

Diseases

The evergreen decorative deciduous flower is affected by infectious and fungal diseases:

• Leaf spotting. The edges of the foliage begin to become covered with brown spots with an orange border, which gradually cover the entire surface of the plate.

• Anthracnose. The leaves become covered with large spots that grow over the plate, which leads to drying and death of the green mass.
• Fusarium. It affects the root network and rhizome, forming elongated depressed dark spots. The disease provokes yellowing and wilting of Dieffenbachia and is transmitted by touching healthy specimens.
• Root rot. Like fusarium, it affects the neck and roots, but is manifested by tissue rotting, causing lodging and further death of the plant.

To get rid of these ailments, watering and temperature are optimized, and treatment is carried out with Fundazol or another fungicide.

Bacteriosis, manifested by watery areas that acquire a brownish or brownish tint, is practically impossible to cure. If the flower is infected, it is destroyed.

Pests

• Spider mite. Cobwebs appear in the internodes, leaves wither and fall off.

• Shield. It feeds on the sap of the plant, leaving behind brown plaques, which leads to discoloration, drying, and falling leaves.

• Aphid. Taking a liking to the plant, it covers the above-ground part of the bush with numerous colonies.

• Mealybug. The flower is covered with a flour-like coating, the leaves change shape and dry out.

• Thrips. Small bugs suck all the juices out of Dieffenbachia. The plant is stunted, the leaves curl and dry out.

Aphids, thrips, and mites appear due to low air humidity (up to 60%). These pests, scale insects and scale insects are removed with a sponge soaked in a soapy solution, and the bush is washed under warm running water and treated with Karbofos or Actellik, diluted 15 drops per 1 liter of water.

Varieties for home cultivation

• Camilla. A compact bush with yellowish leaves, the green border gives them special beauty.

• Bush. It is distinguished by tough dark foliage and a white stripe in the middle of the plate.

Questions and answers

1. Why does Dieffenbachia cry?
   The appearance of “tears” is a protective reaction of a flower to an excess of moisture in the soil. Under natural conditions, channels for moisture release open every time before rain, and when kept indoors - from excessive watering.
2. What to do if the plant stops growing?
   The color should be inspected for yellow round spots (bronzing) and mosaics of spots (viral mosaic). These viral lesions are transmitted by insects.
3. Why does the flower begin to fade?
   The reasons lie in improper conditions of detention. It is necessary to reconsider the location of the plant, increase watering, and make sure the correct dosages of fertilizers are applied.

Dieffenbachia is a popular indoor plant that is characterized by fast growth and bright green leaves. However, often gardeners are faced with the fact that the leaves of the plant begin to dry out, turn yellow and become deformed. How to properly care for the plant to prevent such phenomena?

Optimal conditions for the development of Dieffenbachia at home

Although Dieffenbachia is a favorite resident of the window sills of many homes and offices, it still requires a lot of attention to care. Dieffenbachia is very capricious, therefore, those who grow it often face various difficulties. You need to choose a place for a pot with an indoor flower based on the color of the leaves. If they are monochromatic, then the plant should be placed in the back of the room, away from the light. Dieffenbachia tolerates shade well. But in this case, she will need additional lighting, especially in winter. In any case, it is necessary to avoid windows on the south side, since direct sunlight may cause the plant to die.

The correct development of a tree also depends on temperature. So for the warm season, the permissible norm in the room should be + 21 + 25. In winter and autumn, the air temperature should be from +15 to +20. There should be no drafts, wind or sudden temperature changes in the places where the flower pot is located. To water Dieffenbachia, you need to use pre-prepared water, which infused for at least a day. In the cold season, you need to water the soil after its top layer has dried out a little. In summer and spring, watering should be regular and abundant. The soil should not dry out.

Dieffenbachia responds very well to water treatments, for this it needs to be periodically sprayed with a spray bottle. This must be done so that excess moisture does not fall on the soil; it can be covered with polyethylene. If the plant is already large, the leaves can be wiped with a damp cloth. For the proper development of Dieffenbachia, feeding is necessary. To do this, you need to select fertilizers that do not contain lime. The procedure is carried out on average three times a month.

Features of growing Dieffenbachia (video)

Why do Dieffenbachia leaves turn yellow and dry?

Since the exotic guest is quite capricious, her leaves often turn yellow and dry. This can be caused by both disturbances in the care process and diseases, which are quite common for this particular type of plant. Why do plant leaves turn yellow?

Violation of care rules

Several factors can lead to violation of plant care rules. In first place is improper watering– it can be either excessively abundant or insufficient. The air in the room where Dieffenbachia is located can be very dry. This also applies to office premises, where the lighting is in most cases artificial, and the flowerpot itself is on the windowsill, where sunlight practically does not penetrate. No matter how strange it may sound, but pets may also be involved in violations of plant care. They may chew or scratch the leaves of the flower, but the damage may not be noticeable at first glance. In this way, an infection can be introduced that interferes with the normal development of the plant.

Dieffenbachia diseases and methods of their treatment

Dieffenbachia, like any living creature, can get sick and be affected by infections. Fungal, bacterial and viral diseases can interfere with the normal development of the plant. Leaf spotting, which forms first at the edges of the foliage and then spreads to the entire blade, can be caused by improper room temperature or high humidity. Also Excessive watering and accumulation of liquid in the soil can cause stains. To avoid such phenomena, it is necessary not only to reconsider the systematicity of irrigation, but also the water itself that is used for these purposes.

Anthractosis– with a fungal disease, the stems and leaves are affected by small orange spots, which over time merge into one large lesion, leading to complete drying of the leaf. It occurs for the same reasons as regular spotting. Treatment of affected areas of the plant is carried out by spraying Dieffenbachia with fungicides.

Fusarios– an infectious disease of a flower that affects the roots and basal part of Dieffenbachia. Long orange spots appear on the affected areas, which lead to drying out and death of the plant. The appearance of such an infection is caused by overdried soil and lack of fertilizers. To cure a tree, you need to remove the roots from the pot, rinse it under water and get rid of the contaminated soil. Then spray the roots several times with preparations containing fungicides and transplant the plant into new soil.

How to deal with Dieffenbachia pests (video)

Root rot can also lead to yellowing and drying of leaves.. To do this, as in the previous case, it is necessary to dig out the roots and clean them of infection. If the roots are black and have an unpleasant odor, this is a sure sign of disease. It can be caused by overwatering. To treat Dieffenbachia, you need to clean the infected roots, replant it in a new place, treat the soil with a fungicide and reconsider the watering.

The leaves of the plant may be subject to bacteriosis, during which watery spots with clear boundaries along the edges appear on the affected areas. The development of this disease can be triggered by infection during transplantation or cuttings. To get rid of the infection, you need to spray the plant with preparations containing copper.

Dieffenbachia pests affecting the condition of leaves

• spider mite
• mealybug
• scale insect

Natural causes

Natural causes can also lead to yellowing of Dieffenbachia leaves. In general, this is a natural process that affects older lower leaves. However, when the first spots and dry areas appear on the leaves, there is no need to rush to get rid of them and cut them off at the root. You need to wait until the leaves are completely dry and begin to fall off. Flower growers claim that pruning leaves causes great harm to the plant.

Why do drops form on Dieffenbachia leaves?

It happens that drops form on the leaves of Dieffenbachia; flower growers call this “Dieffenbachia crying.” In most cases, this is a natural process in which moisture is released through special mouths - hydathodes. If the phenomenon occurs quite often, you need to reduce the amount of watering, but do it carefully to prevent the soil from drying out.

What to do if Dieffenbachia has small leaves

It happens that the leaves of a flower develop disproportionately to the trunk; in a word, they are very small or can curl at the edges. Sudden changes in temperature in the room where the plant is located can contribute to this disorder. It is important to provide the flower with the correct level of humidity, especially in winter, when the batteries in the house start to work. It is also recommended to spray Dieffenbachia leaves with special fertilizers.

Dieffenbachia leaf propagation technology

The beauty of Dieffenbachia is that it is quite easy to propagate. An adult plant, more than two years old, is better suited for this. It is better to cut the leaf from the very top and as close to the trunk as possible, leaving a few buds on it. To avoid excessive sap production, reduce watering a few days before pruning. It is better to trim the cuttings with a sharp serrated blade so as not to injure the internal fibers. The cut top can be placed in water or immediately planted on ready soil.

Pests of indoor plants and their control (video)

Dieffenbachia, although it is a rather demanding and capricious plant, still does not cease to be one of the most beloved flower plants. With proper care, in 1 year a fairly tall tree with large green leaves will grow, which will become the main decoration of your apartment or office.

Soft rot. Growth is slow, the leaves become pale green and often droop; old leaves turn yellow. Cracks appear at the base of the stem, from which yellowish-brown slimy rot protrudes.
Control and prevention measures: Sick plants are destroyed. For cuttings, only healthy queen cells are used. The knife is disinfected after each cut (for example, in the oven).

Bacterial spotting. Yellow rotting spots with an oily border appear on the leaves, most often along the edges.
Control and prevention measures: Plants are regularly inspected and at the first signs of disease they are treated with Cumulus, Euparen, Rovral, Fundazol and others.

Late blight. Individual parts of the plant wither and dry out. The rot spreads from the base of the stem to the leaves.
Control and prevention measures: Sick plants are destroyed, the rest are kept as dry as possible.

Anthracnose. Dark, weeping spots of rot appear on the leaves, in the middle of which the fruiting bodies of the fungus develop.
Control and prevention measures: Diseased parts of the plant are removed and air humidity is reduced. Large area plantings are treated with Cumulus, Euparen, Fundazol to prevent the spread of the fungus.

Aphids. The leaves curl, turn yellow, and when severely infested, sticky secretions of aphids are visible on them.
Control and prevention measures: On single plants or in case of weak aphid infestation, wash off with water and soap solution; in case of severe damage, they are treated with Antitlin, Tobacco dust, Actellik, Fitoverm, Akarin, Aktara, Decis, Tanrek, Iskra, Zubr, Biotlin, Komandor, etc.

Scale insects and false scale insects. Whitish or golden-brown tubercles are visible on the surface of the stems. Usually the insects can be picked out with a needle.
Control and prevention measures: You can remove pests from single plants and with small infestations using an old toothbrush, and then wipe the stems with a cotton swab dipped in kerosene. Insects suffocate under the kerosene film. You can also try leaf gloss sprays (oil based). If there are many plants or they are severely affected, they are treated with an insecticide, such as mineral oil.

Scaleworms. White waxy secretions appear on the leaf veins and petioles, in which colonies of scale insects live.
Control and prevention measures: Affected plants are removed. When spraying foliage with mineral oil (M-30, M-50), the scale insects suffocate under the oil film. This treatment is carried out with protection from the sun and not too often.

Spider mite. Yellowish specks appear on the leaves, later - extensive discolored and dried areas. Small (0.2-0.5 mm) mites live on the underside of leaves among the cobwebs. The appearance of mites is favored by high temperatures and dry air.
Control and prevention measures: For mild damage, you can treat the plants with soap or mineral oil. If severe, treat with Fitoverm, Akarin, Vertimek, Molniya, etc.

Thrips. Leaf areas become unevenly yellowish-white in color. Dark discharge, especially on the undersides of leaves, indicates the presence of thrips. These small, elongated yellowish or brown insects usually sit on the underside of leaves. Their appearance is promoted by high temperature and humid air. With severe damage, the leaves dry out and fall off.
Control and prevention measures: To protect mass plantings, sticky blue traps are hung. To completely eradicate thrips, early and repeated application of insecticides is necessary. Spray with the preparations Aktara, Aktellik, Fufanon, Fitoverm, Tanrek, Iskra, etc. After 4-5 days, the treatment is repeated, since insecticides do not act on all stages of development of these insects.

It's rare that a person doesn't like flowers, especially if they are grown with their own hands. And how disappointing it can be if our indoor friends start getting sick. As doctors say, a correct diagnosis is half the treatment. So let's establish a diagnosis of Dieffenbachia based on the main signs of plant disease.

Did you know? Dieffenbachia has a second name - silent reed.

Ways to combat spider mites

If you see that Dieffenbachia is covered with cobwebs, this is the first symptom of a spider mite. The size of the mite varies from 0.3 to 0.5 mm, females are purple-red, males are bright red.

A favorable environment for its habitat is dry, warm rooms, which is why it poses a danger all year round, being located on the back side of the leaf. Dieffenbachia leaves infected with spider mites turn yellow and dry out.

These pests are also insidious in that when unfavorable conditions for their reproduction occur, the female can burrow into the ground and fall into a state of dormancy until conditions suitable for life processes occur.

One female tick lays up to 150 eggs at a time. As soon as you notice that Dieffenbachia is in the web, immediately begin to act, since over the summer one female can lay 8-10 generations of eggs.

If the flower is not severely affected, you can wash its shoots and leaves with a solution of soapy water or aqueous tincture of garlic. In case of intense damage, you need to use insecticides or colloidal sulfur.

Important! If flower juice gets on your skin, you should immediately wash it off with soap and water, as it is very poisonous.

Why are scale insects and false scale insects dangerous on the plant?

The first symptom of a flower being infected with scale insects is the appearance of yellow dots on the trunk and leaves, which increase in size over time. Then the leaves turn yellow, spin and fall off.

The dispersal of scale insects and false scale insects occurs by air currents. Attached to a leaf or stem, they look like scales or growths, as a result of which the plant slows down its growth, its leaves fall off and the flower disappears.

False scale insects, unlike scale insects, do not have a dense shell, so insecticides act on them faster.

To destroy this type of pest we will need:

• brush or soft sponge,
• a solution of soapy water, a water tincture of garlic, or an insecticide solution.

Did you know? The plant has cleansing and bactericidal properties. Its leaves absorb toxic substances from the air.

How to deal with aphids on Dieffenbachia

Aphids cause especially great harm to flowers. The size of the insects reaches two mm; females do not have wings, while males do. The color of pests can be very diverse: from light green to yellow, red or even pink.

Settling in large colonies on young leaves or sprouts, they suck the juice from flowers, causing their deformation and transmitting viral diseases.

Signs that Dieffenbachia has been attacked by aphids are the plant losing its original color, curling and shedding of leaves, and the presence of a sticky layer on it.

Important! In order to avoid poisoning children, it is necessary to place the flower in a hard-to-reach place.

If the flower is severely affected, then it is better to cut off the leaves and shoots. If necessary, repeat treatment after 7-10 days.

Curling and drying of leaves, how to protect Dieffenbachia from thrips

One of the many dangerous pests for Diefenbachia is thrips, since their reproduction is not affected by temperature fluctuations.

The thrips body is narrow with two pairs of wings, 1.5 mm long. The color of thrips is black or brown, the larvae are yellow.

Dieffenbachia affected by thrips becomes discolored and covered with gray spots. Soon the leaves turn brown and fall off.

These sucking pests (both adults and larvae) cause the main damage to flower stalks, which become covered with streaks and become distorted.

In addition, the plant becomes covered with a sticky black substance, on which sooty fungus may appear. To combat this type of insect, the use of flycatchers and spraying with insecticides will be effective.

Did you know? Dieffenbachia got its name in honor of the German botanist J.F. Dieffenbach.

Measures to control mealybugs

Another pest of Dieffenbachia is the mealybug. The oval body of an adult reaches three to four millimeters and is distinguished by a pink or orange color, with a characteristic white coating (sacs with eggs).

The homeland of Dieffenbachia, plants of the araceae family, is the tropics of America.

This shrub is named after the gardener Dieffenbach, who worked at the Vienna Botanical Garden.

As a rule, all varieties of Dieffenbachia are poisonous and, knowing this, planters during slavery, in order to punish, were forced to bite off the stem of this plant, which led to swelling of the tongue and oral mucosa. As a result, the plant began to be called the “dumb rod.”

The plant has large oblong leaves.

DIEFENBACHIA VARIETIES

Variety Dieffenbachia spotted (Diffenbachia Picta, or otherwise Diffenbachia maculata)- is the progenitor of all indoor Dieffenbachias. Indoor Dieffenbachias are distinguished by their variegated leaves.

On the green leaf of this plant there are spots of white or cream color, sometimes they merge into light stripes, or, as in Diffenbachia Camilla.connect into a large one spot.

Lovely Dieffenbachia (Diffenbachia amoena)-another popular variety - differs from spotted Dieffenbachia in that its leaves have a more uniform color.

DIEFENBACHIA CARE

If you want this flower to always delight you with its beauty, know that the most favorable temperature for it is +20-25 degrees; in winter the temperature should not fall below +17 degrees. But the most important thing is that there are no sudden temperature fluctuations.

Dieffenbachia loves when the room where it is located is constantly ventilated, but this plant does not like drafts. In summer you can take it out onto the balcony, but remember that the plant does not tolerate direct sunlight. Although Dieffenbachia is spotted and loves light, it should be kept in partial shade in the summer. In general, many varieties of Dieffenbachia can be placed in dimly lit rooms.

Since Dieffenbachia is a tropical plant, it needs high air humidity: at least 70-80%. To do this, the leaves of the plant are sprayed and washed 2 times a month.

When growing Dieffenbachia at home, the soil in the pot must be kept moist, but do not overdo it with watering, since waterlogging at low temperatures can lead to rotting of the plant's stems and roots.

Watering should be done with settled warm water. If you water Dieffenbachia from a tap, the leaves of the plant will become covered with white spots. To clean the leaves from dust, Dieffenbachia should be washed in the shower. However, it should be remembered that flooding Dieffenbachia with excess water will result in a plant with brown leaves.

At air temperatures above +20 degrees, the plant should be placed on wet gravel or wet peat.

Dieffenbachia should not be fed with fertilizers often: in winter, fertilizing and watering are reduced, and from spring to autumn, the plant needs watering and fertilizing more intensively.

The best soil composition for transplanting Dieffenbachia is a mixture consisting of peat soil, turf and sand in a ratio of 4:2:1.

Dieffenbachia is replanted annually in the spring into a larger pot, with drainage at the bottom. In order not to destroy the integrity of the earthen coma, the plant is simply transferred from one pot to another, but do not take too large a pot: excess soil can lead to the fact that the soil, not developed by the roots of the plant, can turn sour, and this in turn can lead to death of Dieffenbachia. You can ensure air access to the roots of the plant by constantly loosening the soil.

REPRODUCTION OF DIEFENBACHIA

Dieffenbachia propagates mainly by stem apical cuttings, less often by air layering.

For rooting, you can also use side shoots that some varieties of Dieffenbachia produce.

For rooting, it is best to use sand, and the optimal temperature for rooting is +25 degrees with high humidity.

Apical cuttings are used in spring and summer; Dieffenbachia is propagated by air layering from May to September.

DIFFENBACHIA. DISEASES. PESTS

Like any indoor plant, Dieffenbachia needs proper care and maintenance. If the maintenance conditions are not maintained, the plant will get sick and react to the disease by yellowing or drying of the leaves, and the appearance of brown spots on them. We need to react in time and understand what caused the plant’s reaction: was it either lacking the required amount of light, or, on the contrary, was there too much light? Or perhaps the reason was a draft and that’s why the plant began to wither?

Why does Dieffenbachia get sick and not grow: the leaves turn yellow. Pests of Dieffenbachia

Healthy Dieffenbachia is characterized by vigorous growth and bright leaves of appropriate size and color for the variety. If a plant loses its attractiveness and begins to get sick, this is most often due to errors in care, violations of temperature or water conditions. Let's take a closer look at why Dieffenbachia gets sick and what measures need to be taken to prevent damage to the flower by pests and diseases.

Pests of Dieffenbachia

Despite the fact that the plants are poisonous, they are often attacked by pests.

The most common:

Spider mite, a sign of damage to which is the presence of cobwebs in the internodes of the trunks, sluggish and falling leaves.

Thrips, small (1-2 mm) bugs that suck the juices from the plant, which leads to stunted growth, curling and drying of the leaves.

Aphids, numerous colonies of which not only weaken plants by sucking out intercellular fluid, but are also carriers of various diseases.

The appearance of spider mites, thrips and aphids on Dieffenbachia is especially favored by dry indoor air (relative humidity below 60%).

Scale insects and false scale insects, which suck the juice from leaves and stems, leaving a characteristic discharge, brown plaques that are difficult to remove. The leaves become discolored, dry out and fall off.

Mealybugs, insects 3-6 mm in size, attack leaves, stems and flowers, which are covered with a white mealy coating. The leaves become deformed and dry out, which can lead to the death of the entire plant.

Measures to combat all of the listed Dieffenbachia pests are similar; they consist of their mechanical removal using a sponge and soap solution, followed by rinsing under running warm water, and treatment, if necessary, with insecticidal preparations, actellik or karbofos, at a concentration of 15 drops per liter of water.

Dieffenbachia diseases

Most Dieffenbachia diseases belong to the fungal group, the most common of which are:

Leaf spot, causing the appearance along the edges of leaves, primarily the lower ones, of small brown spots with an orange border, gradually covering the surface of the entire leaf plate. The disease is transmitted through plant debris and water.

Anthracnose, in which fairly large spots appear on the edges of the leaf plates, gradually spreading over the entire surface and causing drying and death of the leaf. It is also transmitted through infected plant parts.

Both diseases are provoked by high temperature and humidity, waterlogged soil; as control measures, it is recommended to optimize the temperature regime and watering, as well as treat the affected specimens with a systemic fungicide, for example, foundationazol or vitaros.

Fusarium, affects the root collar and root of the flower, where dark depressed spots of an elongated shape are formed. Infected Dieffenbachia turns yellow and wilts. In damaged areas you can see light pink mycelium of the fungus. The causative agent of the disease persists in the soil for a long time and spreads when it touches diseased and healthy plant roots. The disease is promoted by overdrying and lack of potassium.

To prevent fusarium, it is recommended to use high-quality soil, healthy planting material, treated for disinfection with a biological fungicide (for example, hyocladine). When signs of disease appear, spray with a systemic fungicide.

Root rot, manifested in the form of dark depressed areas on the neck and roots, gradually capturing the entire tissue and causing decay, and subsequently lodging and death of the plant. The affected parts are covered with light gray mycelium. The disease is transmitted through the soil; it is facilitated by an excess of fertilizers and moisture in the soil, lack of ventilation, and high temperature. If there are signs of damage, limit watering, replace the substrate and treat with a systemic fungicide.

Among bacterial diseases, we note Dieffenbachia bacteriosis, in which watery areas with sharply defined boundaries appear on the trunks and leaves. Later they acquire a brown or brown color. The disease spreads through infected plant remains due to mechanical damage, for example, during cuttings. Flowers kept at elevated temperatures and humidity, with an increased amount of fertilizer in the soil, are more severely affected. Diseased specimens are destroyed.

Viral diseases include:

Bronzing of Dieffenbachia, manifested in the appearance of yellow circles, rings and arcs on the surfaces, the affected leaves wither and remain hanging on the trunks, often on one infected side.

Viral mosaic, which is characterized by mosaic leaf spotting.

Dieffenbachia affected by these diseases does not grow, stops developing, cannot be treated and must be destroyed to prevent the spread of the virus. The pathogen is carried by insects, thrips (bronzing) or aphids (mosaic). A preventive measure is treatment with insecticides.

Other problems encountered when growing Dieffenbachia

In addition to the pests and diseases listed above, Dieffenbachia may suffer from improper care and unsuitable living conditions. Let's look at some questions that often arise among amateur gardeners.

Why does Dieffenbachia turn yellow? Most often, the reason for this behavior is low air temperature in winter or drafts, as well as a lack of nutrients and watering with hard water. Yellowing of the lower leaves with intensive growth of the top usually signals that the flower needs to be transplanted into a larger pot. Dieffenbachia leaves also turn yellow when affected by root rot.

Why do Dieffenbachia leaves curl? This usually occurs when attacked by pests, also when watering with cold water, drafts and low temperatures.

Why does the stem become soft and rot? The reason is waterlogging combined with low air temperatures. If the decay is small, you can try to remove it by covering the cut with activated charcoal or charcoal; if it is large, cut off the flower and root the top.

Why does Dieffenbachia dry out? If old leaves dry out, then this is a natural process; if the decorative effect is lost and the stem is exposed, the Dieffenbachia is rejuvenated by cutting off and rooting the top. If young leaves dry out, the cause may be dry soil, cold air, or drafts.

Why do the edges of leaves turn brown? This is most likely caused by drying out soil or low temperatures in winter.

Why do the leaves become discolored? The reason is too bright lighting or direct sunlight on the plant.

Why does Dieffenbachia cry? This occurs from excessive watering; the flower protects itself from excess moisture in the soil. The same behavior is characteristic of Dieffenbachia before rain. As a resident of tropical forests, the plant prepares in advance for excess water and opens channels to get rid of it.

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?Dieffenbachia ailments: how to help cope with them.

Dieffenbachia (lat.) is an evergreen tropical plant, its homeland is the humid forests of Central and South America.

Dieffenbachia can reach two meters in height, the leaves are large, wide, and variegated.

With good, competent care, Dieffenbachia pleases with its exotic beauty, the flower develops well, and new leaves constantly appear. But what to do if your “green household member” gets sick?

Most often, gardeners growing Dieffenbachia are faced with the fact that its leaves begin to turn yellow, dry out and curl, and there are other problems - the flower grows poorly and becomes lethargic.

What is the cause of the malaise: improper care at home or a pest attack? Let's look at all the "sores" of Dieffenbachia in more detail and try to determine the cause of their occurrence and methods of treatment.

Dieffenbachia diseases and their treatment

How to help a tropical beauty?

1. Dieffenbachia leaves turn yellow, reasons, what to do? Solution to the problem:
   • low air humidity. Dieffenbachia, not receiving enough moisture from the air, also begins to turn yellow, so in winter it should be kept away from central heating radiators or buy an air humidifier;
   • direct sunlight, there should be enough light;

It is necessary to check whether the roots of the flower have actually begun to rot. To do this, you need to remove the plant from the pot, inspect the root system, remove rot and affected areas of the root, transplant the flower into another smaller container, observing the planting rules (drainage 1/3 of the pot, 2/3 soil mixed with sand and peat)